When To Use Brass Toe Plates On Dress Shoes | Kirby Allison


Hi I’m Kirby Allison and we love to help
the well-dressed take care of the wardrobes I’m here today with Jim
McFarlane our cobbler that’s in charge of our Kirby Allison shoe restoration
refurbishment program, and in this video I’m going to talk to you a little bit
about some of the really unique characteristics of our program that are
unique to us and that is the ability to have your shoes outfitted with toe
plates. Toe plates are one of the unique characteristics of our program that
whenever I was designing this just like with the JR Rendenbach oak-bark tanned
leather outsoles I wanted to be able to offer our customers toe plates and the
reason is you know it’s difficult to find even some of the highest quality
ready to wear shoes with toe plates just like with our brass nail pattern it’s
one of those characteristics that you just traditionally find on only a
bespoke pair of shoes and so whenever we were creating this program actually
reached out to some of my friends that are bespoke shoe makers to find out what
the precise brands of toe plates that they were using and that’s how we came
up with the Triumph brass toe plates and the Lulu stainless steel toe plates. One
thing that I have found with high-end shoes that people are
wearing they don’t always wear a hole through the sole in the middle now the
type of person that does wear a hole through the sole in the middle it’s
usually the left shoe and it’s because they’re in and out of the car all day
and that’s that pivot foot okay so they wear that shoe out quick so if somebody
doesn’t wear a hole here they’re usually toe wears you can get
somebody’s worn that toe out and it’s still solid right here they’ll still
have 85 – 90 % of the wear left in that Center but they’ve worn that toe out so
it’s really a kind of a shame to take the whole sole off just because they’ve
worn that toe out so you know it’s a really great option if you are
the type of person to wear the toe now you’re gonna have to shoe a really long
time. The last thing you want to do is wear through the toe of the sole in the
toe area and we’re into that well once you wear into this well you take the
chance of changing the shape of the front of that shoe if you take it to the
wrong person there’s a lot of fine people out there
that do a really fine job but there’s some out there that can make this round
toe look like a square toe when their done with it, and the welt is really the lifeline of
the shoe I mean that is what makes a good year welt to shoe, a good year welt
to shoe and it’s there having that wealth that you can restitch that outsole to
without compromising or changing the integrity of the upper at all, so the
moments that you wear through the outsole into that well is the moment
that you really begin to compromise the integrity of the shoe. You know what I
tell customers all the time is that welt is like a steel belt you don’t want to
wear your tires until you see the steel belts coming through the rubber because
then you know you’re in trouble same thing with the shoe, so one of the things
I like most about toe plates and especially a really high-quality pair of
toe plates like the triumph or the Lulu toe plates is it’s just one of those
calling cars of the bespoke pair of shoes I mean something that’s been done
by hand and so whenever I see a shoe with a toe plate a triumph or a Lulu and I
really know that there’s been hand work that’s gone into that shoe. Yes well
usually somebody very passionate is the type of person that’s gonna put that on
something about the love for that shoe , and when when you see a pair of those
it’s not often but when you do see a pair you definitely it catches my eye
too it draws my attention now I look at the
shoe and then I’m trying to look to see what type of shoe it is and then I’m
looking at the rest of them after that I’m trying to see what kind of suit he’s
wearing they have a good haircut this guy gots it together. Hey Jim thank you
so much for all of your work, oh yeah and if you’re considering having your
shoes resoled i really encourage you to take a look at our Herbie Allison shoe
restoration and refurbishment program so our Kirby Allison program really is some
of the finest work to find anywhere in the world and I’m really excited that
we’re able to do that together so thank you so much Jim absolutely if you
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29 Comments

  • Do you know anyone who can do heel plates on boots

  • Thanks for the video as always Kirby.
    I have a question about the type of toe plates used, brass or steel.
    Is there a difference between the two, or is it based on personal preference?
    Thanks again.
    -N

  • Another great Video Kirby! I have gotten more friends interested in dressing well because of your videos! Quick question, what is the difference between your Wellington and Sovereign Grade shoelaces?

  • Hi Kirby, great explanation. I would like to know the thought behind having the option for either brass or steel toe plates. What is the difference and why should we opt for one over the other? Cheers.

  • Thanks for the great explanation on wear patterns! Is there a way to reinforce the center. Also, I want toe plates; they give a vintage appearance.

  • Will you offer an option for people that would prefer Dainite soles?

  • Greetings Kirby, just a question out of pure interest, how does a fiddleback sole get replaced?

  • What minim price range would you consider such an investment worth while? Maybe show makers/brands that say yes that shoe needs taps.

  • Thank you for the video Kirby!
    But I have a question when it comes to toe plates. I own a pair of shoes that aren't good year welted but are wood pegged.
    Should I still consider getting toe plates? Are they useful, since there is no welt to protect?
    Thanks in advance!

  • The best YouTube channel!

  • Every Jim McFarland video gets an automatic thumbs up

  • Another informative video Kirby! Thanks.

  • Mr. Allison, do you prefer Goodyear welted or Blake Stitched? And what’s your opinion on advantages and disadvantages of the two? Thank you.

  • Another great video Kirby!

  • What are the brands used for these plates?

  • Gotta get this off my chest- driving me a little crazy
    When vs. Whenever

    Rule 1 – If an event is unique or its date or time is known, use when.
    Rule 2 – Whenever is best used for repeated events or events whose date or time is uncertain. If you can substitute every time that or at whatever time that in your sentence, then whenever is preferred.

    Note: When can often substitute for whenever but generally not the other way around. The exception is using whenever as an intensive form of when in questions: Whenever will that dog stop barking?

  • I can’t wait to scuff up your floors. Here I come, looking all handsome in my shoes.

  • I can never see a reason to wear metal toe plate on a beautiful leather sole….if a shoe is that expensive anyone that can afford it should be able to buy a new pair when the leather wears out….metal toe plates are a no no

  • Does toe guard create sound walking on tile, ceramic or wood floor?

  • thanks without the hanger project what would i do without it. this is so important for us all and the world.

  • the background music is cracking me up

  • Can you add a toe plate to a pair of Allen Edmonds with an open channel welt? It seems like if I (or a cobbler rather) added one I would cut the threads.

  • Metal toe plates? Only if you hate the host and his/her hardwood floors. A hard rubber toe plate / heel guard does EXACTLY the same without an obnoxious clack-clack and ruining hardwood floors.

  • I have some new shoes that I don't need to be restored but would like the plating added would yall do that?

  • Superb video Kirby !

  • It is very useful information to learn about the left pivot shoe…..thanx for another great video👍🏻

  • Do you offer a cleaning, conditioning and polishing program? I got a pair of boots that I don’t know to get rid of and most importantly, I don’t want to damage the color of them (yellow).

  • Thanks for the video, Mr. Allison. I see all the toe plates in the video are round. Is there toe plate for square or chisel toe shoes?

  • I like this fellow!

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