What Men’s Dress Shoe Brands Are Worth Their Money – What Shoes You Should Buy – Gentleman’s Gazette

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette!
In today’s video we discuss what shoe brands you should invest money in and which ones
to skip. The idea came because we have another live session where we talk about brands in
general, but shoes are a little more specific and it’s just a very intricate topic and there
are lots of brands out there and lots of differences. So today we are going to answer all of them.
So I’m just going to go through the questions. Please put them in the live chat. My wife
and business partner is moderating them and she feeds me the ones that actually fit. So
if you’re question doesn’t show up it’s because it’s not on topic. Okay let’s
get rolling! Stacy Adams, several comments about a great
value for the money (sub $100). Sorry, I’ve never heard of Stacy Adams.
And sub $100 is a shoe segment where you just have to compromise heavily. There’s no way
you could get a quality shoe for $100 retail. What do you think of Lottusse?
Lottusse is Spanish and they have been around for a long time. I used to have I think 2
pairs of Lottusse back in the day. They were interestingly quite thick soled. It was a
derby style in black with wingtips. I always found them a little stiff in the sole because
of its thickness. I think they’ve changed their look overall. I’ve visited their store
in Barcelona once. I think it’s a good value brand. Their styling is not quite what
I aspire to but if you like the styling, I think it’s a good brand. Fratelli Rosetti?
Italian brand. Again, it has been around for a while. They on the other hand have very
thin soles, very soft leathers, not much structure, more design elements. I’d say that Fratelli
Rosetti shoes don’t last as long as maybe some you know English made or Goodyear welted
shoes. They are generally blake or blake rapid stitched. If you want to learn what these
terms mean we actually did a video about it – about the specific construction. Shoe construction
terms. Let me just grab – I brought some shoes here. So, the big difference is when you have
a blake or blake rapid stitch shoe, you can go on the inside of the shoe and see if there
are stitches. If you feel stitches that means it’s a black stitch shoe. If you go inside
of your shoe and you feel in the front and there are just slight ripples but not stitches
that means you actually have a Goodyear welted shoe. Now don’t make the mistake and just
touch the inside of the shoe if there is a leather insole that is glued on. So you have
to see if there is kind of a lining glued on or not. Usually you can figure it out by
just going to the edge of the shoe and see if it pulls up or if it’s a little harder.
But Fratelli Rosetti are blake stitched shoes. So for my money I would probably go with different
brands because you get a better value. Prime Shoes?
Not familiar with them. Sorry. Baldinini?
Likewise. Not familiar with them. Ace Marks?
Kind of a new kid on the block. It’s an American brand but all their shoes are made in Italy.
I would say that are very good value. This is actually I think and Ace Marks shoe that
I have right here. It’s blake stitch construction. Thinner soles. Not chunky. Some nice finishes.
They do something where they have a lot of shoes where the seam is folded in. It’s not
a traditional style but it’s something that they do. They also have I think louder shoes.
So if you’re a fan of bold two toned shoes and you don’t want to go custom or made
to measure or anything that would be the place to look. Is it the best shoe in the world?
No, but it’s a good value shoe, I’d say. Expensive heritage brands like Gucci, Ferragamo?
Santoni? Well it’s interesting like Gucci you know
it’s like you said, it’s a heritage brand but ultimately it’s a fashion brand. It’s
not a shoe brand. And because of that you pay for either the Gucci logo or the styling
but the quality in my opinion is not worth the price tag at all and I don’t have a single
pair of Gucci shoes in my collection because of that. I think the other brand was Santoni?
I would say Santoni is a higher level shoe than Gucci in general. They have also been
around for a while. You know you can buy them at places in the US like Nordstom and they
have like a return policy where you can return the shoes even if you have worn it for 6 months.
My father in law likes them because they are softer. He has some issue with his feet and
so he likes Santoni over let’s say Allen Edmonds because he feels they are softer
and so more comfortable for him. If you are looking for a soft soled shoe or if you have
issues with your feet and you find other Goodyear welted shoes too hard on your feet, it may
be the right choice. Be prepared to pay more for what it is. I think most Santoni shoes
are also blake stitched. They have some Goodyear welted ones, but then you know you pay astronomical
prices. JM Westons is a French brand and it is actually
a status symbol in France. Outside of France they have never really been that popular.
I like their styling. They have like the elongated French last. They are generally Goodyear welted
and it’s a good shoe. I’ve been in several of their stores in Paris and checked out their
shoes. I’ve never owned a pair that I have worn for extended periods of time. Base on what I have
seen in terms of their construction, it’s all solid. Again, you pay a little more because it is
a status symbol. It is a brand that is well known and that’s what it is. Best brands for loafers?
Now if you check out our loafer guide on the website you’ll see there are all kinds of
different loafers. You have a driving moc, you have a tassel loafer. Not all things are
made alike. So there is not one brand that is best for loafers but I would check specifically
for individual shoes. Then there is not even one brand that is right for everyone because
everyone has a different budget. Everyone has a different style and kind of understanding
of what they want in terms of quality so you have to consider that. Any good brands for widths – wider or narrower
feet? In general I would say French shoes in my
experience are narrower. I you go with popular brands usually what they’ll have is that
they’ll have different lasts and some are wider and some are slimmer. So it pays to
kind of either talk to the manufacturer or look at catalogues or go to the store and
look at them and see what fits. Some brands you know like Allen Edmonds they have a specific
last that comes in different widths and so that can be quite helpful especially if you
have extremely wide feet or slim feet. Corthay?
Another French brand. I actually visited them first in I think 2004 when they weren’t
really on the map. I had a friend who had heard of them and so we drove to Paris and
checked out their store. At that time it was just Pierre Corthay and his brother and one
little shop. They had great shoes. I mean looking at them they look like art. They had
a nice patina which at that time not many people or even Berluti would do. They are very
extreme lasts. It’s a very Parisian look in my opinion. Ironically when I put the
shoes on and I had a pair of Corthays for a while and I look down I always felt like
I was wearing cobbler boots because they have a very pointy chiseled toe. So it’s not
pointy but it’s chiseled usually. I think they also have a rounded toe. But for me personally
it was just not a look that work for my style. Otherwise, Goodyear welted shoes, quality
patina, high price tag. It’s not a bargain shoe. Are Paul Evans shoes worth it?
I think I talked about them before. I really think it’s an overpriced shoe. I think initially
they started out at the lower price point and then they added all the marketing and
spent a lot on marketings so people kind of on Youtube or internet would learn about them.
Then they added a higher priced shoe because they realized hey if I have higher priced
shoe, I make a bigger margin, I make more profit. They have very loud polishes and patinas.
I think for the same money you can find a better shoe. Not loud enough. Okay. Well you got to turn
up your microphone. I can maybe go up with the sound a little bit. Let’s go to this
so it’s maybe slightly different, I hope. I hope that works. Is that better? I hope
so. So, yes. Are Paul Evan shoes worth it? No,
in my opinion. I have owned one pair and I got rid of it because I didn’t like it.
I’ve seen probably – I don’t know, 7-8 pairs at Antonio Centeno from Real Men Real
Style who worked with them and he likes them but I don’t. Crockett and Jones? Bench grade?
Crockett and Jones are one of those brands that has been around for a very long time.
They know what they do. I saw their factory in North Hampton in England. It’s a quality
shoe that you can’t go wrong with. I think their regular line is already very high standard
and the difference to Bench grade is not that much. Although the price tag is quite significant.
I have a bench grade pair and I also used to have a regular pair and they’re good shoes.
Period. Do you pay for them?
Yes. It’s a better value though than let’s say Santoni in my opinion. Best brand for oxfords?
Again you know, there’s not – people like simple solutions but there are no such thing
as just simple answers and shoes that work for everyone. So I’d rather suggest you
go to our Oxfords Guide and learn about the different styles there are, learn when they
are appropriate and then we also talk about different brands and different price ranges.
So you just get a better idea of what’s right for you. Allen Edmonds?
Allen Edmonds you know, American brand, made in I think Port Washington Wisconsin. The
company has been around a long time but the owners have changed. The last time I was out
there at the factory and saw everything, they were owned by an investment company in Minneapolis.
They’ve sold I think a few years back. In the past you know they always have a consistent
quality level. I don’t know if things have changed. I would assume they probably didn’t
change too much but what was interesting in Allen Edmonds was that they kind of changed
their styling. They used to have this old shoes. “Old” in terms of you know for
men in their 50s maybe. Then there was a time when they tried to be more modern kind of
update their last and become more modern which almost bankrupted them because their core
audience didn’t like the new styles. People who were looking for something new would go
for other brands. So they went back bringing more traditional styles and then having I
think some you know some football shoes or just special editions and customization
options out there and they are doing quite well. I think it’s a good value shoe made
in the US. They use good leathers. They test their stuff. It can look a little bit like
clunky. So if you don’t like that look, Allen Edmonds isn’t probably the right brand
for you. I have a very nice pair. It’s a pair of spectators. I think the model was
called Bel Air and they don’t make it anymore. The last I thought was very elegant and refined
but again it didn’t sell for them so they got rid of that. I also have pair of Allen
Edmonds that is you know a pair of boots that is cordovan so that’s nice. I have one pair
that is kind of lined with sheepskin and it’s really weird because the leather is like a
scotch grain and it actually squeaks when you walk so the quality control on that one
wasn’t great, like they didn’t think about it. It looks like it’s a pigment coated
you know embossed scotch grain pattern. I don’t like those shoes very much because
they just squeak. Shoepassion?
Interesting brand based out of Germany. They have solidly grown over time. It’s not like
I would say like Paul Evans or Ace Marks. They didn’t just come on the scene and you
know had huge success. They built it slowly but consistently. They have lots of stores
throughout Germany. Shoes are made I think mostly in Spain. They have a wide range
of things. Sorry about that. They have wide range of things so for example if you want
a white pair of buckskin shoes. Shoepassion has it. If you want some boat shoes, they
have it. If you want those kind of not so nice looking Llyod style, Lloyd is a German
brand shoes, they even offer that in a higher quality level. They also have all sorts of
other shoes. They are a solid product. Good value Goodyear welted shoe. You’d be hard
pressed to find a better value than what they offer. I think they also have a dedicated
website now where you can order directly so it’s easier with customs and stuff, so you
can check that out. Loake L1 range?
I’m not specifically familiar with the L1 range. I think it was a lower end range? I
think they had a more higher end heritage line. So for Loake I would always go for that
higher end line because Loake itself is rather affordable grade value. So I try to go more
up than down in their different lines. Made in England and they do a lot of private label
shoes too. Sometime you may not know it, it’s a different brand and it’s actually made
in a Loake factory. Best brands under 200 Euros?
Boy, that’s hard to tell. I think, sometimes you know a brand starts at that price level
and then they kind of go up and change simply because they realize they can make more money
that way. I’d be hard pressed especially you know because it depends on the kind of
shoe. But we have I know in our guides, in our shoe guides like the Oxford Guide for
example has a segment under $200. So I would check that out. Meermin?
Spanish company from Mallorca. I visited their factory. Very nice, very knowledgeable people.
It’s a very high end production. It’s not cheap by any means. It’s really good.
They have heritage. They have nice styling. They have beautiful leathers. They have great
construction. Overall a good shoe. It’s not cheap but you know sometimes when you
have sons in the company they want to do their own thing so they went off and created a brand
– a sub brand that was actually… Wait a second, Meermin? Yeah, I think Meermin. Well, the
same family created a brand of shoes and I have a pair of them which is made in China.
It’s the Albaladejo family and I visited them in Mallorca. I’ve never visited the
Chinese plant but they used the know-how they had from their Spanish making shoes and transferred
it to made in China wages. So you get a quite good quality level. I think Meermin though
and I misspoke earlier, Meermin is the Chinese brand. Albaladejo and Carmina are the Spanish
made brands. So Carmina and Albaladejo are higher end. Meermin is the lower end. Meermin
for example I think I have a cordovan loafer and rather than using Horween leather they
used the leather from I think Japan. So they used lower grade leathers. They used the less
expensive wage or factory and therefore there are more saving for the consumer. J Fitzpatrick?
I’ve looked at his shoes before. I think he does a solid job you know he’s really
into shoes. He likes what he’s doing. He grew his brand over time. He started as a
blogger similarly to us. We’ve worked with him in one point in time and whenever we would
post pictures he would always complain that we did not properly attribute his – that it
was from his blog or we tried to and so I think we you know kind of taken a step back.
I don’t want to do anything with him as a person but his shoes I would say are good
quality. Church’s? Are Church’s shoes worth the money?
As good as Crockett & Jones? Church’s shoe you know used to be I remember
when I first got Bernhard Roetzel’s Gentleman book at that time it was the first German
book out there that was more comprehensive on classic men’s clothing and shoes and
he praised Church’s at that time. Now at the time it was a traditional English shoe
manufacturer and they make good stuff. Eventually I think they got bought out by Prada and they
started adding you know lots of rubber soles and stuff. The price stayed high even a little
higher, the quality went down. So I’d say Church’s today is not the level of Crocket
& Jones today. I have some old Church’s shoes that were you know before the Italian
ownership time. They were actually quite solid. What they did and I really like that – they
had a linen lining. Most of the time now you have a leather lining and they had it in the
back of the heel but the front was linen lined and because of that I think my feet sweat
less thank in an all leather lined shoe. Magnanni?
I haven’t had a chance to buy a pair. I don’t like the styling very much. It’s
one of those Italian shoes that’s you know out there and I just don’t think it suits
my style and I can find better value elsewhere. Cole Haan?
I think modern Cole Haan are definitely not worth the money. I wouldn’t wear them if
I got them for free. They are more you know, middle of the road supposedly shoes. I think
they are more you know, I think they did collaborations with Nike and stuff and whatnot. But if you
want a quality pair of shoes, don’t but Cole Haan’s. Tod’s?
Is well known for their driving mocs that they popularized. Well they have a cool styling
and we talked about them in our Driving Moc Guide. So check out that video because it’s
all about Tod’s and what I think about them and we show them. I think it’s an overpriced
shoe for me personally but you know it’s an iconic style if you want a status symbol
it definitely works. Cheaney London shoes are they worth 500 pounds?
Back in the day you know Cheaney was independent and I think then they were bought by Church
but they were carried on as that. I have a few pair of old Cheaney shoes. I think things
changed in recent years and I haven’t been you know up to speed on what they have actually
done and changed so I couldn’t tell you if the Cheaney quality is worth 500 pounds
today. I’d have to look at a current model and I haven’t done that. John Lobb.
Well you know there is an old story. There is John Lobb St. James which is the bespoke
shoe maker in London and then there is John Lobb the ready to wear brand which is John
Lobb Paris. They are two separate business entities. You know the rights for the ready
to wear line was sold and so when we’re talking about John Lobb you have to distinguish
between those two. Probably these days because of the ready to wear line there are stores,
when most people say John Lobb they mean John Lobb ready to wear. I think they have a very
elegant styling. They use very good leathers. Very good construction. They are made in North
Hampton and there is an outlet there too. I checked it out. I think they are very nice
shoes at a very high price tag. So great quality, value not so great. Borgioli?
I’m not familiar with that brand beacuse you know there are lots of brands out there. Carlos Santos?
And you say Santos because it’s a Portuguese brand. I visited their factory as well. I
think they produce – they have different levels and they produce a very good shoe at a very
good value. Herring shoes?
That’s a little more difficult because Herring shoes started as a shoe retailer in England
and they make their shoes in different places. Sometimes they make it in Portugal, sometimes
in England. So you have to look at the specific model I guess and look at that. Overall from
what I’ve seen it’s probably a good value but I haven’t had Herring shoes in a while.
I had a pair way back in the day. I think it was a made in England model that they sent
to me and it was a nice cognac monk strap. Sometime you know I could see that some of
the patina finish will just come off or like peel off which I thought was quite weird.
They must have sprayed it on or something. I haven’t had any Herring experience in
the last probably 5 years so I can’t say too much about them. How to buy quality shoes if you’re broke?
Well, I actually bought quality shoes when I was broke. I bought them used on Ebay when
I was you know a poor civil servant in 2003 because that’s all I can afford. The first
pair I bought I went to a vintage store it was like a brand. It was a brand new pair
of shoes for I think 100 euros at that time. So that was cheap. If you are broke, try to
look at vintage stores, gently worn shoes, sanitize them and then polish them properly,
take care of them and wear them. That’s the best way to go, in my opinion. I would
rather spend $100 on a lightly pair of Allen Edmonds maybe or you know seconds sometimes.
I remember you can sometimes find things like that like a pair of Allen Edmonds for $150
that’s a very good deal for this kind of quality. It’s much better than a new pair
of Cole Haan’s or Johnston Murphy or anything like that. What are the most high end shoes you own?
Were they worth the price? I have some St. Crispin shoes which are very
you know expensive. I think it makes sense to spend a lot of money on shoes if you go
bespoke because that just gives you a fit for your shoe that is one of a kind, at least
in theory. In my experience the first modeling you know doesn’t quite turn out that well
and then with the second maybe you can refine the last then you’re getting there. So I
would say if you go bespoke it’s worth it. Otherwise let’s say St. Crispin ready to
wear, maybe if you have feet that are very conformist with the last or there’s a last
that fits you very well, it’s a great way to get shoes because bespoke is very expensive.
If you don’t have to go that route it’s great because you get something for a much
better value. El Corte Ingles?
Well that’s that big Spanish department store. I checked them out when I was in Barcelona
but it was a few years ago. Honestly I haven’t looked at their store brand shoes so I couldn’t
tell you anything about that. Are Berluti overpriced?
Yes. Now that being said, Berluti has been kind of on the forefront of shoe patina. I
remember 10 years ago, 15 years ago not many people would have these patinas and Berluti
would always come up with crazy stuff. They would like tattoo leather and you know engrave
it and polish these really nice colors. I had a pair of shoes they had like a lay
fine in between soles. They always charge a high price at that time they were like 800-900
euros. More in dollars even. I never felt they were worth it. But if you like the patina
if you like their unique outlandish styling it may be the right shoe for you. What are your thoughts on Russel & Bromley?
I found them to be great cheaper alternative to Church’s or Crockett & Jo.
Honestly, not familiar with Russel & Bromley. Never seen their shoes, never heard of them
so I can’t tell you. Crockett & Jones we discussed them before. Please how can we identify a good leather
in a shoe? Well actually I talked about that in our $100
vs $500 shoe I think it was. Basically, you look at the leather and see whether it’s
open pore or closed pore. Basically without it you can correct the grain which means you
can take the leather and sand it off and then emboss a grain back on the leather that looks
like it’s actually higher quality leather or not. So when you take the leather and you
kind of bend it in here and you see the crinkles, it can give you a good idea especially if you see a slight
color change it’s an open pore leather that was aniline dyed that wasn’t coated with
another layer such as a Johnston Murphy or Cole Haan or whatever cheap shoe out there
you take. I suggest sometimes you know go take a cheap shoe and look at it. When you
crack it when you move it and the cheaper leather will get creases much more quickly.
You will see that there is a top coat of layer just hides whatever is underneath. Check out
that video and the guide on our website to learn more about shoe leather quality. Can you tell me what you think about R. M.
Williams? I just bought my first 500€ Chelsea Boots from them.
​Yes. RM Williams, Australian brand, chelsea boots is I think is their bread and butter.
They make boots and chelsea boots if that’s what you want if you like their style I think
it’s a solid shoe, the construction is solid. Personally, I’m not a huge fan of their
styling necessarily. I think they are often a little clunky but if that’s the style
you are going for, if you are more like a rugged, wear a lot of jeans and flannel shirts
that’s may be a better look for you. I rather prefer to wear combinations, jackets and suits
and stuff and I think it doesn’t fit very well with that aesthetic. How do you rate Johnston Murphy?
Vintage Johnston Murphy were much better quality. Modern day Johnston Murphy I wouldn’t recommend
it. I think they’re stiff, cheap leather shoes. From what I’ve seen I would not wear
it for free. How long do you suspect a shoe for $400 would
last without shoe care? Well first of all I think that is an extremely
dumb idea to have a $400 shoe without caring for it because it will not last as long as
it could if you have taken proper care of it. That being said it also depends on how
often you wear it. If you wear any pair of shoes every day it will degrade much more
quickly even if you polish it a lot. So if you have a $400 pair of shoes and you wear
it everyday and you don’t take care of it. You walk through rain, you don’t let it
dry properly, you don’t use shoe trees. I think it can break after a year probably,
maybe a little longer. It’s going to look like crap so don’t do that. Edward Green?
Edward Green is another English maker. They are on the higher end of the spectrum. They
charge more for their stuff. They use a lot of I think aniline dye open grained leather
and then polish it at the factory. They are quality shoes. They are very kind of sophisticated
styling very English. I think a lot of Italians like the style because for them it is quintessentially
English. It’s also a very high priced shoe. You know it’s higher than Crockett & Jones
for example. You have to be the judge if you want to pay extra for their styling but definitely
a good quality shoe. Value for me personally more like in the middle somewhere because
I think you can find other brands with very similar quality at a lower price point. What can you tell me about R. M. Williams?
We already talked about that. Raphael what is your favorite shoe brand?
I’m really curious! Well it’s such a hard question because I
can see you know there are good brand out there at certain price levels. I wouldn’t
say I have one favorite brand. I’m always a fan of good value in any price category.
I’m not someone you know who wants to spend money on a John Lobb bespoke shoe. I’d rather
go to a small bespoke maker in Spain or in Portugal and have something made there because
I don’t need the name. I just want more the quality and that’s just who I am. Carly shoes?
Don’t know them. Who do you get to resole your shoes? Do you
always send back to the manufacturer or use a local cobbler?
I always found that sending them back to the manufacturer is you know takes some time.
Luckily, I also have a lot of shoes at this point in my life. I really haven’t resoled
a shoe in years. Simply because I can wear so many different pairs that I don’t have
to, they just don’t wear out. When I used to resole shoes I would go to local cobbler
and usually they did quite good stuff. I have some shoes that were resoled many times and
they are still good. I always have it done at the cobbler. If you have a high end cobbler
you can actually with a Goodyear welted shoe take out the double stitching and go through
the same holes that cost you a lot more. If they just take the machine and go through
it you can maybe just resole it 2 or 3 times before they’re just too many holes and it
won’t hold anymore. Some companies have really great programs. I remember it was at Allen
Edmonds, that way it works it that you can actually ship it there and then they take
pictures of your shoes beforehand and take pictures along the way of how it’s resoled
then you get it back. Advantages you know they use the original last on the shoe, get
it in there and you get a proper redo. I always found a local cobbler was less expensive.
Sometimes you know some will just glue them back on but if you have the right glue today
it can last as long or longer as stitches. So like glues that can glue together houses
and bridges, it’s going to work for shoes. It’s more of a tradition of what you want.
Basically your call. I think going with he manufacturer is not a bad idea. If it cost
you $250 maybe you want to think it over, maybe go to your local cobbler where you pay
$60 or $80 have to think of that. St. Crispin?
I think I talk about them. Made in Romania. It was started by one man and then it was
kind of sold on. High quality. You know they shoe trees. They carve out a hole so that
air comes out. I think it takes just a day to create shoe trees. Romania has a very low
wage country and their shoe prices are very high. They always have a very nice styling
very sophisticated stuff. It’s a high end shoe where ready to wear you can made to order
you can get bespoke if you are in Austria for example or Vienna shoemakers. It’s up
to you, you may not get the same styling so high end styling, creative, good quality on
St. Crispin but also pricey Thursday Boot Company? Are they really Goodyear?
You know what they contacted me and wanted to work with us. I mean I think their price
point is like 199. They never sent me a pair of shoes so I haven’t looked at their stuff.
I can’t tell you. I don’t know if at this price point you get the highest quality, usually
you can’t. I don’t know if it’s a good value because I haven’t seen them in person. Peter Huber shoes?
Don’t know them. Sorry. Sperry boat shoes?
I suggest you check out our Boat Shoes Guide which also has a video. I have a pair of Sperry
boat shoes. They work for me. I got a version where they use like a Horween leather. I think
they were made in Dominican Republic. I don’t know where they make all their shoes. Solid
value for the money. I think can’t go wrong. Alden?
Alden is another American brand. Very specific styling. They use a lot of cordovan. I have
never been a huge fan of them. Like the styling didn’t quite work with me. I once took shoe
apart though with Alden and they had like plastic heel caps and toe caps which surprised
me because I always thought of Alden as a little more higher end. I don’t know if
they still do that or if they made changes. If you like the styling that’s great. But we are over the 30mins mark actually.
So I’m going to wrap it up here. Just a few more questions. OCHNIK leather shoes from Poland.
Never heard of them but would like to learn more about them. Are there any good Bespoke shoe companies
in the US? What are they? I think there is like E. Vogel is one of the
few remaining ones left. There are not many bespoke makers in the US left. There are a
few you have to search, I think there is a guy out in Washington or in Oregon. I wanted
to visit them once but I didn’t end up going to that city. So there are a few I have not
had any personal experience with them. Be prepared to pay like $3000-$4000 minimum because
US is a high wage country and so you are going to pay for it. Describe your outfit today.
Alright. I am wearing a it’s kind of an open weave shirt. It’s white. I am wearing
a Fort Belvedere knit tie. It’s kind of this mottled blue which I really like for
summer. It’s more of a casual look. My jacket is part of a green suit. Single breasted,
2 button. It’s a fresco material which is very breathable it’s a wool it’s very
coarse and it’s wonderful for summer. For pocket square I am wearing a white Fort Belvedere
pocket square with an X handrolled stitch. It’s very difficult to do. We just added them
to our line up not too long ago. We found some ladies in Italy with really very high
quality and consistency of hand stitching and only they can do it. I talked to other
companies in England and so forth and they couldn’t. They would refuse to do it because they just
can’t do it consistently. I was very glad to find them. Boutonniere is a small light
blue boutonniere from Fort Belvedere as well which all of those accessories you can find
in the shop. Then I think I have seersucker pants. Polo Ralph Lauren. Not sure if you
can see them or not. I’m wearing a pair of green tassel loafers from I think Scarosso.
Matching leather belt. Socks I went with light gray and light blue striped socks from Fort
Belvedere. Simply because they kind of pick up the elements and they go well with the
shoes and the pants. And then a ring, sterling silver with malachite. No cufflinks because
it’s warm outside so I like the barrel cuffs because it’s cooler. No wristwatch because
I’m not a big wristwatch guy. I like pocket watches sometimes but usually I like to wear them
with a vest because I have the pocket and I like the style of it. I hope that was helpful and useful. If you
want to learn more about shoes, I really urge you to check out our guides. We’ve created
videos about them for different styles and the construction and I’m really sure you
will like it because there’s a lot of information in there that would have taken us hours to discuss
today. So if you’re interested in shoes and want to find something check out our website
and you can find all the information there. Thank you and stay tuned for our next live
session and Friday’s video which I think may be about — nah I’m not going to say
yet so stay tuned! It’s going to be a good one.


  • I visited an Allen Edmonds store near me and was upset to see Made in Honduras, Vietnam, Dominican Republic. What a shame that they are turning away from Made in USA. The tables open for someone else to take the stage!

  • Trickers …..nuff said.

  • He’s never heard of Stacy Adams brand of shoes.LOL He’s a snob who wouldn’t be caught dead in a $100 pair of shoes.

  • I wish you talked a bit more on ferragamo and your thoughts on it

  • I’m glad you supported the local cobbler when you needed work. Really as long as you have a good local cobbler there’s very little reason to send them back to the manufacturer. I have a shoe repair shop and do high end work, I always remove old stitches and have a lot more options than the manufacturer. Allen Edmonds for example uses a very low quality leather sole and heel on most of their models. At my shop we have a standard leather that is better than most and offer JR leather as the premium upgrade. I can’t speak for every cobbler, there are lots of hacks out there unfortunately, but I personally spend more time on finishing than the manufacturer does and if you have an odd request, like green soles and laces or something we make it happen.
    Also most manufacturers will reject a repair job for any little reason, if you had work done elsewhere they reject them, if there’s a tiny little crack in the uppers, they reject them, did you wear a hole through the liner, REJECTED! Meanwhile the local cobbler will be happy to address those issues and you aren’t out shipping both ways. The manufacturer figures they’d rather have a new shoe sale than a recraft.

    Anyway, great video, it was nice hearing about some of the European brands I don’t often see. I’ve only seen one pair of JW Westin’s for example. Interestingly the customers name was J(Maybe John or something) Westin.

  • I bought Alden walkers, they're built like a tank, and walk like a tank. I don't run marathons, but they don't work for me. To call them clunky would be an understatement, at least in my opinion. Just had to say that, get it off my chest.

  • He's never heard of Stacy Adams, but what he says is right, they do compromise a lot, and in my opinion they're not a good shoe.

  • Make sure your shoes are comfortable, function matters at least as much as looks/aesthetics. I had a pair of Santoni shoes, they're one of the nicest looking, most expensive I ever bought, but they were very uncomfortable making them hard to wear.

  • I guess Cole Haan won't be sending you a pair of shoes anytime soon.

  • OMG, glue together bridges… wish I hadn't heard that.

  • Sir did you mentioned you posted J Fitzpatrick's photos without crediting his brand and you don't want to deal with him anymore after he spoke up? Its an issue of principles over intellectual property, so he might have strong feelings over that aspect IMHO.

  • I've only had sperry top sidders that my dress shoe and y other recommendations also recommendations on suits ties and hats

  • Joseph Cheaneys. Beautiful classic British leather design crafted shoes.

  • Just cant hear you

  • Paul Evans thoughts…?

  • pollini shoes your thoughts on these?

  • Pity Sons of London were not mentioned…

  • I wore a pair of Stacy Adams for my first few years in college they're not a bad shoe if you only attend a couple of events but if you are wearing a dress shoe for work I can't recommend. If money is really an issue save up for two pairs of Meermins black and brown for about 220 each online 200 in the NY store.

  • Hi, thank you for your work. Well, have you heard about Barrat's and another one: George's? Both made in Mallorca.

  • I have earphones and can't hear you

  • Hi Gentleman's Gazette,

    Just sharing my top picks of Men's dress shoes, would like to know your take on my list.

    Yohei Fukuda
    Antonio Meccariello
    Masaru Okuyama
    Gaziano & Girling
    Ann. Bespoke shoemakers
    TYE Shoemakers
    George Cleverly
    Stefano Bemer
    Saint Crispin's

    Alternatively, for an affordable pair of MTO or ready to wear dress shoes, I would go for – J Fitzpatrick shoes. Amazing shoes for the price and the closest one could get to top quality dress shoe, without going bespoke, which is expensive.

  • Can't hear you, BYE.

  • I bought a pair of goodyear welted Zign shoes. I bought it from a market place in Romania. They have an unusual look but are great for a casual outfit, the color is very dark blue/green and a bold welt. But I've bought them for 30 € and they are almost brand new, they look like they were only tried on, not worn by someone. The other time I went to that market place I've found a pair of classic full brogue, medium brown, goodyear welted, leather sole, derby shoes and they are no brand at all, maybe they are handmade. I bought those for 15 € and they were in very good condition, a bit of wear on the sole, very little wear. They are timeless and I couldn't found a pair like that for under 200 €. Buy vintage! Go vintage! Go for a treasure hunt! It's fun, after all. 😉

  • This video is great and a really really great part is the description in the video discription!

  • I hate to say it but this could be said in a quarter of the time

  • A quality John Lobb shoes is never overpriced.

  • lol this is awful video


  • Cool Thanks

  • My late father always wore Florsheim dress shoes, made in Chicago. Those were the days.

  • I have bought a used Santoni Derby in burgundy/ kind of red. The shoe is in perfect condition but the insole is a little worn out, you feel it while wearing. Any suggestions for that ?

  • No mention of Clarks – unless I missed it.

  • What about ALDO?

  • Wbu Whe Florsheim Shoe?

  • Whisper

  • ecco?! Most comfy shoe ever, top tier leather and looks.

    Ummm…ya….nice shoe base

  • How about Barker? They are English shoe makers that usually retail from £500-£1500 and I think they are brilliant.

  • Hi! What do you think about R.M.Williams chelsea?

  • Are Barker shoes worth the price that you pay ?

  • Allen Edmonds, Alden, and Santoni for me please

  • Just curious what the concensous is on Rockaports? I purchased a pair tthat was 70% off so I only paid $80. They are comfortable all day, fit very well, and seem very sturdy.

  • What do you think of Thursday boots? Second question, up to which price point is it better to make your own shoes than buying ready made brand? Thirdly, is Lloyd and Allen Edmonds the same OEM? Or which is better

  • Sorry my volume is turned up 100% and I can Not understand you – buh bye (that's 2 of three you guys) Split screens and bad quality is not what I signed up for !'

  • Sanders, UK top brand.

  • please increase your volume by 10 fold next time. i turned up my speakers all the way and it's still too hard to hear you.

  • Is Rockport a good shoe brand?

  • LOL ,please dont waste his time with Stacy Adams jokes

  • Enjoyed this informative video. Which brands of the following will last longest if maintained well ? Give one more than decade of use

    Crockett & Jones
    St . Crispins

  • My aplogy for the barrage of questions, yet, you are such a fount of knowledge…..Who are lesser known bespoke makers in Spain and Portugal that you would reccomend? The ones that are true values and not the names.

  • As an American, it's surprising to hear someone say they haven't heard of Stacey Adams. They are on the cheap side though.

  • I have Cole Haan and love them, had a college buddy that worked for them and took advantage of his 50% off employee discount

  • Perhaps third time is the charm on asking a question; What are the brands that have similar quality to Edward Green,but, are at a lower price point?

  • Before this video I almost bought Johnson & Murphy…….thank God I didn't, thanks Raphael!

  • More like Pretentious Man's Gazette.

  • Have you ever tried DIS custom shoes made in Italy? You customize everything from color to soles. I’ve been looking for navy white brogues but can’t seem to find some already made.

  • The volume is extremely low but thanks for the info

  • I have 2 J.M Weston shoes I have owned for 18 years now… Great shoes, my favorites are the Moccasins.

  • If I Italy, go Officine Creative. Hand Made. Wonderful Style.

  • What was the first brand he said

  • What do you know about Vintage Foundry? My wife got me a pair last week. I like the style, but never heard of them.

  • Guy i can barely hear you.

  • I have some expensive shoes from various brands and I think the Gazette is under-rating the quality of luxury brands like Gucci and Hermes. The quality on my Gucci and Hermes shoes seems nicer than my Edward Greens.

  • Carminas is nice for very fair pricing

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