Goodyear Welted Shoes | The BEST dress shoe for men? | RMRS


Why Sharp Dressed Men Love The Goodyear Welt
[0:00:00] Anytime you start to talk about quality footwear,
you can guarantee that the words Goodyear welted are going to pop up into the conversation. But, what exactly is a Goodyear welted shoe
and what advantages does a Goodyear welted shoe have over the Blake stitch or bonded
shoe? That is the subject of today’s video. [Music]
Gentlemen, throughout this video you’re going to see some great-looking Goodyear welted
dress shoes. If you want to grab any of these, I’m linking
to them down in the description and you’re going to find them over at Thursday Boots. The paid sponsor of today’s video and a
sponsor I’ve worked with for over two years. So, if you already own some Thursday Boots,
you know these are some of the best made most comfortable and some of the best deals on
the planet when it comes to Goodyear welted footwear, guys. They’re using the tier one leather out of
the United States that has no blemishes that looks great. So, yeah, right here the upper I can spend
a lot of time a lot of money on the materials here. Then, I looked at the practicality of the
sole. They’ve actually not only have the rubber
right over here, but then they’ve got this rubber right here going through the leather
and they got layers of leather I can see right in here. Overall, an amazing construction at a great
price. And that’s what I want to stress, Nolan
and his company they are committed to offer you guys high quality shoes. I’ve met these guys in person, they are
the real deal. I’m linking to them down in the description. Go check out and support Thursday Boots. Now, to start this off let me quickly explain
the difference between bonded shoe construction, Blake stitch construction, and Goodyear welted
shoe construction. The first type of shoe construction I’m
going to talk about here is the bonded method and this one that use an adhesive to attach
the upper down to the sole. You’re going to see cement, you’re going
to see glues, but they’re using no stitching to connect the upper down to the sole. This is going to be the least expensive form
of manufacturing. They are basically producing disposable shoes. Now, there are some advantages. It can produce a very lightweight shoe. So, for combat boots for running shoes, this
is probably the type of construction that you do want to go with. Next up, we’ve got the Blake stitch method. And this is a huge step up in quality from
the bonded method. We’re not using glue here, we are actually
stitching the upper down to the sole. Very common in Italian dress shoe manufacturing
because it enables you to create a very slick looking dress shoe of high quality. So, try to imagine this as links in the chain. With Blake construction, you’ve only got
two links and they are directly connected to each other – the upper and the sole. In Goodyear welted construction the welt is
the key. The welt is directly sewn in the upper the
welt is directly sewn to the sole, but the sole is not directly sewn to the upper. We have three links in the chain and the upper
and the sole are separated by the welt. All right. I know what you guys are thinking, how does
that small difference in construction why does that matter why does that make a difference? Guys, let’s get into the three reasons the
Goodyear welted shoe has an advantage now over the other forms of construction. Now, the first advantage is going to be weather-resistance. So, if you’ve got snow if you’ve got sleet
outside you’ve got rain, it is something with Blake-stitched shoes, oftentimes wearers
will complain about their feet getting wet. Why? Because you’ve got the upper directly connected
to the sole and what’s connecting them is that thread. That is your only line of defense when it
comes to a Goodyear welt construction. Again, just the way that the shoe is made
the way that the insole lies in there and the way that the welt is connected to the
outsole, all of that basically does not provide an easy path for water into the shoe. Now, the second advantage of Goodyear welted
shoes is that in general they have a more robust built. They’re built for a man that wants to take
care of his shoes and get them resoled. He wants something that he can invest in,
a pair of shoes that he’s going to take care of. The manufacturing process for Goodyear welted
is going to be one of the most expensive ways to make shoes. And therefore, it’s going to be chosen by
manufacturers that spent a lot of money on the upper, spend a lot of money on the sole
and the materials that go in there because the craftsmanship the detail that goes into
the work they are spending so much on that labor. Hey, they’re going to go ahead and spend
the extra money on the materials. Advantage number three. Goodyear welted shoes are the easiest to resole
and can be resoled many more times than other types of shoes. So, with the Blake stitch, the problem there
is you’ve got the upper that’s attached to the sole and you’re actually putting
holes on the upper. You can only do that so many times when before
it’s going to just tear down and basically the bottom of the upper is going to fall off. Now, with glued with bonded shoes, yes, you
can get those resoled, but every time you do that it does a little bit of damage, again,
to the bottom of the shoe and oftentimes you’ve got such an inferior upper it’s even not
worth it. Now, when it comes to Goodyear welted shoes,
not only is the resoling going to be easy because the stitching is on the outside, but
as long as the upper stays in great shape you can resole this as many times as you want. You’re simply replacing the sole, you’re
also going to replace the welt, but the upper is going to stay intact. [0:05:01]
Now, this next advantage is kind of a bonus advantage that some people will say about
Goodyear welted shoes and that’s that they’re going to be more comfortable. The big thing between here and the Blake stitch
is that the actual stitching happens with the Blake stitch on the inside of the shoe
right here on the Goodyear welt. As we’ve talked about that happens on the
outside, so there’s not stitching on the inside of the shoe when it comes to the Goodyear
welted shoe. A lot of guys say that’s more comfortable. Me personally, I love both styles. And this video wasn’t about bashing one
style saying one is truly better than the other. It really depends on what your needs are,
what you want to get out of the shoes, but I think for a number of situations, definitely
a Goodyear welt has its advantages. All right, gentlemen, now it’s your turn. I want to hear from you down in the comments. What do you think of this video? Did I miss anything? Would you have added anything to make it better? And what type of dress shoes do you like? Do you like the Goodyear welted type or are
you a Blake stitch man? Let me know down in the comments what you
prefer. Me personally, I’ve got a wide variety. Yes, I love my Goodyear welted shoes. I’ve got a wide variety of different Blake-stitched
shoes that I like. I’ve got bonded, yes, glued shoes that I
like. Why? Because they were inexpensive, they got me
started. I’ve got running shoes that works perfectly
fine for glued. But, when it comes down to you want to step
up to the Goodyear welt, one of the highest signs of quality when it comes to men’s
dress shoe if you want a great deal. I’m linking to them down in the description. Thursday Boots, great company. I love every – I mean, yeah, wholecut, you
guys have been wanting a pair like these? I mean this is going to be a great price. Go check them out. You guys have bought their boots, you love
the styles everything they’re bringing, incredibly comfortable. I’ve got four pairs that I put a lot of
miles on and I can tell you guys that it’s a great brand great company. I’ve spent time with them in New York. I’m proud to support them. And, again, I’m linking to them in the description
and that’s it. All right, guys, take care. And I don’t know what else to do for you
here. Just at least you can watch me smell these
shoes. Ah, new shoes smell. Isn’t it – isn’t it great just leather
in general? Ah, nice. [Music]
[0:07:09] End of Audio

94 Comments

  • First comment

  • Second comment.

  • sir plz make a video on knock knees plz sir

  • damn nice video man

  • Good man

  • Please do a video for finding the face shape, extensively and hairstyles for them

  • I bet antonio wont like this

  • WHAT WILL THE TMF'S SAY ABOUT THIS VIDEO??HMM

  • I bet Antonio wont pin my comment

  • Good morning

  • I love your nice videos

  • Thank you, Antonio!!
    But you do have a Video explaining the Goodyear welt, right?

  • Nice video mr

  • Nice video..What is your opinion on Paul Parkmen?

  • Weren't you a spokesman for Paul Evans dress shoes?

  • Why Do Sharp Dressed Men Love Goodyear Welted Shoes?

    https://thursdayboots.com/ – Click here to check out Thursday's brand new collection of Goodyear Welted Men's Dress Shoes.

  • Thank you for the information comparing the Blake and Goodyear. I prefer Allen Edmonds and the Goodyear weld.

  • Realy like your content. They're informative, and very mature.

  • Very informative, thanks

  • I do like goodyear welted shoes. but I also find them heavier, less flexible, take longer to break in and requiring thicker construction, which means I prefer them for cooler weather, maybe wet weather, and for certain styles such as my oxfords. Really like them on something with a brogue on the upper. However in the warm weather, I like the thinness, and flexibility you can only find on the blake stitch. Something like my loafers, I almost always end up with the blake stitch on them and a thin sole and upper, and they tend to view them as more graceful that way.

  • I am in kerala

  • I have been thinking alot about Thursday boot co. And this video has made my decision that much easier!
    Thanks Antonio!
    Question I have for you, are there shoes just as good as there boots? I live in Los Angeles so boots aren't really needed here lol! Any guidance you may have will be greatly appreciated!

  • 🤣 After looking at the title for this video I thought you were going to talk about Mexican Huarache’s. Those Mexican Sandals/Shoes have Outsole’s that are literally made our rubber tires. Specifically Goodyear Tires.

  • 360 degree Goodyear welt >>>>

  • Sir your videos are really awesome

  • I love Goodyear welted and YES they are a lot more comfortable in my opinion. Thank you, Antonio, for the amazing video.

  • What about Veldtschoen construction? I have a pair of designer boots that are apparently Veldtschoen welted. It’s a type of Goodyear welt that is very water resistant. Are they easy to resole? Got an album here https://imgur.com/a/rHHD9Cf

  • Great video. I just bought some Thursday boots.

  • Thursday Boots are on my list indeed.

  • Thank you RMRS

  • Learned something new

  • I didn't knew what exactly it was, but I was pretty sure that it won't come off like forever. Thanks for the info, Mr.Antonio.

  • I do like Thursday boots style but I can't bring myself to buy any of them, I've seen such awful things about their quality control. I've seen too many pictures on reddit of pairs falling apart within weeks or just really poorly finished. I've even seen one pair that had been shipped to a customer with a different number of eyelets on each side of the shoe…

  • Do you personally have glue bonded dress/casual shoes?

  • It would be even better if you have addressed hand-stitched dress shoes. Just a thought.

  • I love my Allen Edmonds Daltons because of this. I wear out soles fast. I've noticed it is quite difficult to find a pair of chukkas with a Good year welt. Thanks for tipping me off to this company. Great video. I love products that can be revitalized that last. Lately I've been purchasing from companies that have truly lifetime guarantees. Perhaps a video on that subject would be welcomed by others. LL Bean for instance.

  • Nice 👍🏾 Video, I Thoroughly enjoyed it💯

  • Antonio great video. I would have mentioned how to take care of your leather outsole.

  • I rarely wear dress shoes, so I go for the cheapest ones. I do love my Red Wing 10877 work boots-welted construction and made right here in Minnesota.

  • Thanks. For this video.i like it.

  • Every time i look at pictures on the Thursday website i think "man these look good" but then i see the pair i already bought from them and it brings back horrible memories…first of all when i ordered them i paid 75 extra dollars to get priority 2 day shipping on my order, and i got them 1.5 months later…my first shipment was returned for no reason, supposedly it was because someone at the airport made a mistake chose to send it back to the sender, and even with that i tracked it over USPS all the time and it was so slow like regular shipping…i emailed customer care demanding i get a refund for the shipping which i clearly did not receive and they pretty much ignored that part of the email all together and just continued to apologize…

    But then we come to the fun part…

    Even tho i emailed their customer service on 2 different occasions with my exact feet measurements, asking them to please tell me what size i should get because i really don't want to mess up and have to return, they told me to get a size 9 which ended up being at least 2 sizes too big for me, so now i was left with a pair of shoes i can't even wear without looking like Ronald McDonald…lucky for me my dad took them so it wasn't a complete waste, but it was 300$ of my budget and a month without proper boots during fall…

    Needless to say nowadays i lurk their website to get inspiration of what i want to get and just go out and buy locally…

  • I don't know if it's because I don't often wear earbuds to watch Antonio's videos, but at 6:26 and after I could hear the shoes dropping.

  • Personally, I think that the Goodyear type shoe are ugly (underneath) – I would try a pair though, and if they are as good as you say… hey who knows, I might just stick to 'em.

  • I strongly prefer Goodyear welted shoes. I'm waiting to go to an interview, and I am currently wearing Allen Edmunds McAllister wingtips in Merlot. My daily wear shoes have Goodyear welting.
    With shoes fit is King. It doesn't matter how great a pair of shoes are if they don't fit. Since I have long extra narrow feet(13A)- I'm buying Allen Edmunds from their Shoebank.

  • I personaly prefer blake stichted shoes as they are just that bit more elegant compared to the often slightly clunky goodyear welted shoes.

  • Been rocking a pair of thursday boots since Christmas. Learned about the company in your previous videos. Best boots I've worn yet (even through a canadian winter I should add).

  • These are beautiful

  • Thanks for this. My father always reminded me "Goodyear Welt on a Navy last", although I'm not sure which manufacturers still use the Navy last.

  • informative vid, have to buy Canadian during this trade dispute though

  • I'm wondering what would last me longer. A pair of sneakers, or bonded dress shoes? I cannot afford for any stitched shoes

  • Stepping up your video and content quality! Nice

  • nice video but you asked so the only thing I wanted to see was up close view of the welts good year vs bonded vs blake

  • My thursday boots started falling apart after a week of me having them

  • OMG! I am SO GLAD you made this video! I've been making HUGE mistakes in my thrifting for a very foolish reason. I've been PASSING OVER Goodyear welted shoes for the simple fact, in error- that I thought that they were shoes created for Goodyear Tires employess. I thought they were TRACTION kind of shoes like you buy when you work in a restaurant. OMG! I can't believe it. Least I know now but I've passed over some fine shoes thinking they were cheapos. Ughh.

  • Antonio, you're going to cause me a headache with shoes one day. My sister's already giving me weird stares because of my new-found obsession for shoes, and here I am now, being barraged with more and more good info.

    Keep the good work going, man. Big help for guys like us who like to follow a textbook for when it comes to our wardrobe. Keeping it simple, keeping it effective, carrying the message forward.

  • informative video sir, missed last 2 videos , going through pretty bad days …zzzz……,

  • Super

  • I what Shoe's But Don't Have a Money

  • Anyone have a good brand and/or store for boots? I'm not a huge fan of buying clothes or shoes online. I'm a big guy so my size usually varies throughout different brands

  • "New shoe smell." Lol.
    My Chelsea boots that I picked up around Christmas time have a Goodyear welt. I love these shoes.

  • I love GYW but I'm more of a stitchdown kind of guy 😉

  • Thank you. I never knew what was so special. Goodyear welt is my preference.

  • REALLY interesting video, Antonio! I’m a lover of fine shoes, but I’d never heard of this particular construction technique. I’m now really looking forward to checking out Thursday Boots 👍🙂

  • Thank you for the education. Awesome

  • I use Blake Stitched shoes

  • Thanks for a nice video. I'm far from an expert but I've got quite a few Goodyear Welted shoes and two Blake stitched (one quite budget but one very expensive). I certainly notice a difference in how robust the Goodyear Welted ones feel. If I had to summarise my feelings I would say the blakes would work well for a warm dry climate like Italy but for rainy UK where I am or if I ever have to walk off road into soil and mud (yes maybe not the best thing to do with dress shoes but it happens) the Goodyears feel better suited.

  • Nailed soles ??? Paul Evans ??

  • I love my Goodyear shoes they are really comfortable and re-craft able. Cheers MZ

  • i have a pair of goodyear welted cole haan derbies, ofc i had no idea what i was buying when i got them, they were on sale and looked ok

    they're super heavy compared to my other shoes, they feel a little stiffer too (maybe it's the sole), but the quality on them is unreal
    the leather is alot nicer and softer, they polish way better that my other shoes too

    plan to use and abuse them for many years to come, and they better hold up or i'll be pissed because they were expensive

  • nic inof

  • Honestly, if you want to top notch shoes/boots. Check out Alden boots, heschung and Edward Green. Buying "cheap boots" means 2 things. Its not "tier 1 leather" etc. That's just a lie.

  • Those are really good looking shoes!

  • I have several pairs of Goodyear Welted shoes that I've had for decades. Given the proper care of cleaning , polishing,& storage; (Shoe Trees) , I'm sure that these shoes have a chance to outlive me. The only reason that I'd need to purchase another pair of Goodyear Welted shoes is for ; "Highland Dress". I'm well aware that the chance that I'll not ever get the mileage of the those shoes …but… I'm of the people that find that shoes of that quality feel better.

  • I learned something today!

  • This is perfectly timed. I actually consulted my shoe cobbler and had a chat with him what would be the best sole for cap toe Oxford style that I aiming to acquire. And he also mentioned the Goodyear Welted where he mentioned all the advantages you did Antonio.
    Great job as usual.

  • Blake stitch (Italian) only line of defense
    haha

  • WOW! I was thinking shoes like these would cost atleast 300-400 usd.. These are under 200 usd!! That is crazy – i will order some very soon. LOVE the executive model

  • Nearly 2 millions subs… come on let’s subs guyssss

  • 2018…..is there ANYONE out there, serious about quality and style who hasn't heard about Goodyear Welted shoes?!
    I love GDW wholecuts. They are just so slick.

  • I buy Trask and good imported German and Italian shoes. I like the Lincoln shoe loafer from Thursday. Those are nice but I'm hearing problems below on here about them.

  • Just received my first pair, quality leather, the craftsman first rate. Will definitely not the my last pair.

  • And what about boots/shoes for the rest of the week? In all seriousness though: you only get what you pay for – a quality shoe will last, providing of course you maintain them, cleaning them after wearing, only wear them once a week, put shoe trees in to maintain the shape. For a quality wardrobe I'd say you need at least 8-10 pairs of shoes for a decent rotation.

  • Great explanation of the difference between Blake stitching and Goodyear welting. I think both are good but Goodyear welting is better for dress boots since I’m more likely to wear boots in wet weather.

  • Great vid, can anyone help answer my overall question below?

    According to it's definition a WELT is:
    A leather rim sewn around the edge of a shoe upper to which the sole is attached.

    And honestly, that's exactly what I think of when I hear the words "Goodyear welt" or "storm welt", or just the word "welt" alone, for that matter. But what about a "blake welt" aka "blake sewn"? A blake welt/sewn doesn't have a piece of leather (or other material) around the rim of the midsole, so does it even constitute as a welt? It's missing the seemingly most important part of a welt, i.e. the leather rim (unless it does have it and if so please tell me, lol). Is this why I often see it being referred to as "blake swen" as opposed to a blake welt? And if a blake welt is indeed a type of welt then the above definition needs to be revised. Because a blake welt is a process where a stitch goes through the top of the midsole all the way through the bottom of the outsole via a stitch. That stitch continuously goes around the rim of the midsole joining the midsole and outsole. Now according to Google's definition above, this is not a welt beacuse it doesn't have a piece of material like leather that is sewn around the rim of the midsole.

    I would like to know what you guys think about the welt on this boot in the link below. Their website describes it as having a "Thick leather welt". It's quite hard to make out but when I zoomed in really close I can see what appears to be a leather welt on top of the midsloe. But this clearly isn't a Goodyear welt, so what is it? If it does have a leather welt but isn't a Goodyear/storm/Norwegian welt then what could it be? I'm so confused, lol. Help.
    https://goo.gl/dJCUvV

  • Clark kent

  • But when you replace the welt, wouldn't you have to put new holes in the upper when it's stitched to the new welt?

  • Love Thursday!

  • I got the captain brown from Thursday Boots. Comfortable my first real pair of dressy casual boots. Thank you for your recommendation and boy. The price for these were a superior deal!

  • It seems that the Goodyear welted shoes are a better investment.

  • the Goodyear Welt will actually have a stitch on the inside as well.

  • Hey Antonio is it a big deal of the stitching to the sole of the Goodyear welt is only halfway to the sole ?

  • I love Goodyear welted shoes! Great info!

  • Very helpful

  • Great video. Didn’t know there was a difference…. I do now and I will look for Goodyear welts.

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