First Shoe Polish: Dimitri Gomez Cap Toe Oxfords

Hi I’m Kirby Allison founder of the Hanger Project and here at the
Hanger Project. We love helping the well-dressed
take care of their wardrobes. In today’s video I’m going to be
performing the first polish of my new Dimitri Gomez bespoke shoes. Dimitri Gomez is a very special Shoemaker in that he’s one of the
few out there operating at his level
that are doing the entire process
himself. From taking your measurements to
creating the last, you know, to doing the pattern
making, to stretching the uppers over the shoe and making the shoe itself, a pair of Dimitri Gomez shoes only touches one artisan’s hands and those are the hands of Dimitri
Gomez. So I was very excited to add a pair
of these to my collection. It was an absolutely joy to work with him. And you can view several videos about that process on our YouTube channel. Because Dimitri Gomez is just a one man shop, he’s not spending the amount of time
in finishing or polishing the shoes before
delivery like what you would find in a Cleverley or a Lobb. The reason is because it’s just not the highest and best use of his time. So these Demitri Gomez shoes, I’m going to be polishing for the
first time and I’m going to be going through
the polishing routine that we really recommend for
a new pair of shoes which is actually building up the foundation of a good
polish with the proper conditioning with the Saffir Renovateur then using the black cream polish. And then finally I’m going to be
using the Saffir Mirror Gloss and the Saphir Pate de Luxe to build the high shine on the toes and the heels. Since this is the
first Polish I’m actually going to go to the
trouble to remove the shoelaces from these
shoes. Now removing the shoe laces is
really in all honesty completely optional. Depending on the way the shoes are
made removing the laces can actually be quite a bit of trouble. And generally whenever I’m shining
my shoes I prefer not to remove the laces
because I feel that it just put undue stress
on the eyelets and the upper vamp of the shoe. So you know unless it’s just a really thorough shine like the presidential shoe shine or you really need to get in here
for some reason, I normally don’t hassle with removing the laces but for these shoes because again
this is the first shine and I want to do it as
thoroughly as possible. I’m going to go ahead and remove
these laces. So I’m just going to gently lead the
shoelaces back through the holes again. You want to be gentle in doing that
because you don’t want to put any type of
unnecessary stress on these eyelets. So you know don’t rip them out you know try to be as careful as
possible to read this back through the holes. There we go. Now you can see Dimitri
is actually using an unwaxed cotton shoe lace. You see these a lot from John Lobb, Saint James, I believe Crockett &
Jones is probably applying these to
Dimitri. We have unwaxed cotton laces, Sovereign Grade laces available on So now that the shoe laces are
removed I’m just going to gently buff these shoes using a horsehair shoe shine brush just to clean any type of dirt or any dust that’s accumulated on
the surface. So it’s just a gentle buffing. So first what I’m going to do is I’m
going to apply the Saphir Medaille d’Or Renovateur. This is a mink oil based
conditioner. It also provides a gentle cleaning, it’s water based, it doesn’t have any solvents and it’s a fantastic conditioner, I really call it liquid gold. If you could have just one product
the Saphir Renovateur would be the single best
product you could buy to take care of your
shoes because it is so versatile. It’s going to clean, it’s going to condition, it has waxes in here, so it’s going to provide that
protective wax barrier and help you elevate the
shine to a nice soft shine it’s not going
to give you high gloss like a wax will like a wax polish but it will give you a nice soft
shine. The other thing I love about the
Saphir Renovateur is you can use it on calfskin, you can use it on cordovan, you can use it on alligator, or crocodile, lizard. It is an absolutely incredible
versatile product and it’s one product that I
feel like everyone who really cares about looking after their shoes should
have in their shoeshine box. So I’m going to apply the Saffir
Renovateur using a cotton shammy. Again. Less is more. So I’m going to make sure I kind of
get this spread out. I’m just going to massage this into
the leather using circular motions and moderate pressure. OK. Well that right shoe dries I’m going to apply the Renovateur to the left. And using small circular motions medium pressure you know really trying to get this
into the leather. So I’ve allowed the
Renovateur to dry. And so now I’m going to buff it out using a horse hair brush. So you can see just after one coat
of the Saffir Renovateur we’ve got a really
nice shine that’s beginning to develop. I mean that’s the beauty of the
Saphir Renovateur it’s just an absolutely
fantastic product. You know it’s great for that kind of
general regular maintenance. It’s going to condition the leather
it’s going to feed it it’s going to keep it soft and supple it doesn’t have any pigment in it so it’s not going to
fix any type of scuffing or scratching but it does have waxes so it’ll kind
of renew and elevate that shine. And as with all the Saphir Medaille
d’Or products, it’s such a high quality combination
of waxes that included in this
Renovateur that even after wearing the shoe for a few days, all you need to do is rebuff it with the horsehair brush those
waxes persist and they re-shine very easily. OK so we’ve applied the Saphir Renovateur and next I’m going to move on to a
pigmented cream polish, so here because
they’re black, I’m gonna use the Saphir Pommadier cream polish in black. Now the benefit of the pigmented cream polish again really is the addition of pigment so it’s going to help you know just even out and renew or rejuvenate the finish of the
leather itself. These are new shoes so does it
really need pigment? Questionable, but I’m going to add it anyway just
for the sake of being thorough. I’m going to apply this with my cotton chamois. And again less is more. So one of the things that I like to do is just kind of dab it around. To just ensure that I’m not getting
too much in any one area and then just apply it you know
using small circular motions. Medium pressure. You really want to work this into the leather. Because this is a semi brogue, which, a full brogued shoe would essentially be a wing tip, this is a semi brogue, it’s a cap toe oxford semi brogue. The broguing are all these kind of small holes you have cut into that pattern which is decorative and it actually creates a less formal shoe the more holes you put in it the less formal the
shoe becomes, still an appropriate kind of daytime formal dress shoe, but a cap toe oxford with no broguing just stitching would be more formal than this. If you have any type of like if you
can see any whiteness through here you could use a dobber it would help
you get the polish into those holes even
better. It just really depends how the shoe
maker makes the shoe whether or not these holes you can see any kind of just neutral leather behind it. And so with all polishes I’m going to set this aside and let that dry while I work on the other shoe. Now one of the things I really love
about these Dimitri Gomez shoes is its just beautiful elegant kind of almond shaped toe. You know in my unboxing video, not even actually in the first fitting video that we have
posted on the youtube channel, you can really see kind of the
process that we went through to really develop this toe shape. I mean one of the things that’s
unique about Dimitri again is you know he doesn’t have a really highly established kind of firm, you know, style it’s not like you know Cleverley where you know
they are absolutely iconically known for their square toe you know Dimitri, you know, will absolutely modify the shape of the toe based off of whatever your personal
preferences are because he’s not really you know married or you know kind of rigidly
committed to a house style really craft this shape. And so again it’s just one of those bespoke details that will
continue to make the shoes special for me. So I’m going to set that shoe aside, allow that to dry. This should be dry right here. So again I’m going to buff this off using a horsehair shoe shine brush. So again, beautiful shine really
beginning develop here. Again the purpose of a cream polish is: one, you’re able to add the pigment, two you’re going to further feed and condition the leather because of the different oils and waxes that are in this polish. And then lastly, the soft waxes and the cream polish are going to provide you this nice kind of soft shine. And so this is where know personal preference really kind of comes into
play. You know how shiny you are how many coats of polish and whether or not you use a
traditional wax polish whether or not you do any of that
really depends on your personal preference of what type of shine you’re looking for
your shoes. You know for a lot of gentlemen a
nice soft shine even across the toe cap would
be enough. I personally especially with my black dress shoes prefer more of a gloss on the toe and the hind counters and so that’s why after applying the cream Polish I’m going to begin applying the wax polish to elevate
that shine. After one coat of the Saphir
Pommadier cream polish you can again continue to see the shine of these shoes
elevate. That’s because we’re really building
that wax finish on top of the first coat of waxes we applied with the Saphir Renovateur. Now that I’ve applied the Pommadier
cream polish I’m going to move on to
building that higher gloss finish on the toes and the hindquarters using the
Saphir Medaille d’Or wax polishes. Now, a new product that Saphir just put out is the Saphir
Mirror Gloss. We were actually instrumental behind having them develop this the Saffir Mirror Gloss has a very high concentration of hard waxes, much higher concentration
than in the Pate de Luxe. And what that does is it just that
allows you to build that foundation of wax polishes faster and in fewer coats than with the Pate de Luxe in order to develop that high shine. So I like to use these two products
together. What I’m going to do is I’m going to
apply a base coat of the Saphir de Luxe to really kind of get and sink that into the leather pores and then I’m going to build up the
finish using the Mirror Gloss. And then finally I’m gonna finish it with the Pate de Luxe to really
polish and to gloss the hard waxes and the Mirror Gloss polish. These two products used together is like magic. And whenever it comes to waxes I really prefer to just use a chamois, my Saphir Medaille d’Or waxes and a little bit of water. So I’m going to wrap this around my
fingers and as I stated I’m going to start with The Pate de Luxe wax polish. So I’m just applying this with small circular motions and medium pressure. So again a wax polish because of the high concentration of hard
waxes you really want to concentrate this
to the hard countered area of the shoes. Now the hard countered areas the
shoes are the areas where an actual stiff piece of leather is placed in between the inner lining and the actual upper end. What that does is it just creates a hard area of the shoes so it’s not like you know the side of the vamp where it’s really flexible. This area is reinforced with that hard leather so that it doesn’t move or change the shape. If you apply a hardbacks across the vamp what you’ll end up with is the waxes will actually
crack and form a white kind of waxy residue as you walk with the shoe. I’ve got that first coat applied to
the left shoe. I’m going to allow that to dry up. With the wax polishes again, it’s really important to
allow the wax is dry before you try to buff them
off because if you buff too quickly and the waxes haven’t dried you’re just going to buff those hard waxes
right off the shoe. And buffing wax polish off, I like to use again my high shine chamois the same area of the
chamois that I use to apply the waxes and a little bit of water. And what you’re doing here is you’re
just think of it as like you know almost
wet sanding. You want to use a light pressure and a lot of friction to just glaze those waxes to a shine so a little bit of water and you just continue to do this
until you see you know the fogging of the wax disappear and a shine to begin to develop. Now this is just the first coat, I’m using the Pate de Luxe here just just so that I really get that into
the pores of the shoe. Again it is a slightly wetter polish and has more solvents in it so it’s going to penetrate that
leather more than the Mirror Gloss. So since I’m doing this for the
first time. I’m going to apply the Pate de Luxe just one coat first and then I’m going to begin really
building that foundation with the Mirror
Gloss. Now the trick and I’m not doing it
here is that if you use ice water you’re able to glaze or shine those waxes faster than room temperature water. And the reason is because the cold
water just hardens waxes even faster. Now that I’ve got the one polish or the one code applied there I’m going to begin to build the
foundation of that mirrors shine using the Pate de Luxe mirror gloss so the mirror
glass is very hard wax polish, really high concentration of those
hard waxes the carnauba the montan wax that is going to allow you to produce that that high gloss shine. It’s a much dryer wax than the Pate Deluxe and so you really have to develop a
little bit of a feel for it. I like to use some water whenever applying it just to help you know soften up a little bit. So because the mirror gloss is such a dryer polish it has less solvent in it. What’s nice is that it dries much faster than the Pate de
Luxe, so really dries very quickly. So I’m going to move on to buffing
it off for the mirror gloss finish the way
this is done is you apply a layer of wax polish, buff it to a shine so it’s kind of an arduous task. I mean there’s no way to speed it
up. The Mirror Gloss certainly helps. But it’s got to be done in layers. So what I’m doing is I’m building
this finish I’m applying more Mirror Gloss. Right. And then while that’s drying
I’m going to take a little bit of Pate
de Luxe and water and buff the heel. You know the Mirror Gloss really
helps this process go much faster because you’re just
not having to spend as much time waiting
for the polish to dry so you can actually work on just a single section at a time. So the process that I’ve really
developed here with this Mirror Gloss that I personally enjoy is you know a little bit of Pate de
Luxe on the foundation, apply the harder Mirror Gloss wax polish on top of that then take just a little bit of water and just a little bit of the Pate de Luxe Mirror Gloss and you’re just
trying to pick up the pick up a little bit of the Saphir Pate de Luxe just you know really just a little
bit because what you’re picking up here is just
a little bit of the solvents to help soften and shine the harder waxes and the Mirror Gloss. And just kind of like alternating
that right. So I’m applying a little bit of the Pate de Luxe just to help me buff a little bit of
water. And you’re buffing the harder waxes and the Mirror Gloss to shine. And then depending on how high you want to go you just repeat that process again you’re
kind of layering those waxes it’s really easy to get lost in a mirror shine, I kind of find myself falling into almost magnifying any kind of slight imperfection in the shine and you know you can find that
you’ve just you’ve lost hours you know and kind of pursued this mirage that is the perfect mirror shine. But this is pretty good I’m just
finishing up here you know just with the little bit of water I’m softening you know the pressure that I’m using I mean again I’m just trying to really kind of
develop that shine by gently buffing that wax polish and I’d have to say that that is a pretty good shine we have there. You know the heel has a nice polish
to it also. The toe has you know really just absolutely beautiful mirror shine. And so I’m going to set this aside. And basically repeat the same
process with the left shoe. Again Mirror Gloss, Pate de Luxe, a little bit of water, buff it to a shine. More mirror gloss, a little bit of Pate de Luxe and water buff it to the shine a proper mirror shine on the toes and heels of your dress shoes
is quite possibly the most difficult
shoe shine to create. It just takes time. But as you can see here it is
absolutely worth the effort. A pair of highly glossed highly shined a black dress shoes is possibly one of the most elegant
shoes a man can wear. And as you can see from the before and after these shoes they look totally different. The character of these shoes has
been completely transformed into what was a beautiful pair of dress
shoes to a pair of dress shoes that will
absolutely make an impression. And lastly I’m going to relace these
shoes. But instead of using the original unwaxed cotton dress shoelaces I’m going to further dress these up with a pair of our Sovereign Grade round wax shoe laces. These are in the 75 centimeter length so the ends will be longer than the pair of 70 centimeter shoe laces that Dimitri had used. We have an entire video on the website on how to lace your shoes. Now when ever I lace my shoes I’m
always using the straight kind of barbell method and certainly without question produces a much more formal more elegant shoelace. So, basically I’m coming under up and across to create that, straight across and then alternate. Just going across. So again you jump across and then you take it up and over and back and then you just alternate
this throughout the shoe. Now that I have the shoes re-laced I’m going to reinsert my shoe trees so that we can admire the work. Re-tie them. But here we are, my Dimitri Gomez bespoke shoes with a proper first polishing. You know it’s always fun to polish a
pair of shoes for the first time you get to really
appreciate the craftsmanship. These shoes are absolutely beautiful and I can’t wait to put these things
on and go out and walk around in them. They’re brand new. They’re still a
little bit stiff. They’ve got a little bit more
breaking in them. But otherwise they are absolutely completely and perfectly
comfortable. If you have any questions about
anything we discussed in this video, please ask them in
the comments section below. I get back to all questions
personally and of course if you like this video
give us the thumbs up or better yet
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receive notifications whenever we send new videos and please take a moment to visit to view the largest collection of
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well-dressed. I’m Kirby Allison, founder of the Hanger Project and thanks for joining us.

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