Crochet Socks for Beginners: Toe Up

In today’s tutorial we’re going to do a family pair of socks. This is for children 2–4, child 6–8, ladies 5–6, ladies 7–8 and men’s sizes. Let’s do that next. Welcome back to The Crochet Crowd as well as I’m your host Mikey. Today we’re going to work on some socks. And this is the family socks. This is the smallest size version of 2–4 years of age. There’s many different sizes available for the entire family. Today I’m gonna be breaking down the steps in being able to making socks. In the tutorial format I’m gonna show you the child size version because everywhere we have to move stitch markers around and et cetera is all done at the same points. And the same kind of information for all of them, so I only have to film out one tutorial because once you see it it’s great. So wether you choose a kind of a fun yarn like this one here. This is the Sunset Strips and uh, this is the Kroy Sock Yarn. Or wether you go Kroy’s Sock yarn FX, this here has a slower transition just like you see and it really does a great job when you look at it from this perspective. So let’s get started and let’s start looking at this tutorial in more detail. Throughout today’s lesson we’re gonna end up back on the chalkboard. And the chalkboard has all the different steps involved with making the pair of socks that you see on screen. So obviously you’re looking at the adult size version. The size that we are doing as a child size which is what I had in my hand earlier. So we’re gonna go through the introduction and then we’re gonna go through each one of the steps. There are six different steps from the toe, toe growth. You have the instep, you have the ankle to the cuff, you have the cuff and then you come back and do the heel. So in-between each one we’re gonna come right back to the screen and then restart. So let’s begin for the introduction of the pattern review size substitutions, stitch markers and more tips. So here is our pattern and it’s available on There’s a link in the more information of this video if you’d like to access it. And you will see that there’s different sizes available from 2–4, 6–8, lady’s sizes and then men’s. And so you can see that they’re represented by a color and those colors are represented in the pattern when you see a multiple of instructions like so. So for example chain six and then six, nine, nine and ten. So you’re thinking, okay, which one am I doing. So you look at the diagram, you hook here and you say okay, I’m doing the child size version 2–4. Look for the color. It’s six. So what I like to do is once I commit to a size I like to go through my pattern with a highlighter and highlight every time that you see instructions with multiples like so indicating all the different sizes. I like to highlight the one I’m gonna do. This is really critical I think even when you’re doing like uh, um, maybe a lady size half way through the middle, if you highlight that and you go through you pattern first you will not probably screw up like you could if you if you don’t. So its just one of those things that I think that you should really do. Again, this is a personal choice and it’s really up to you. So what we’re going to be doing in today’s tutorial is that I’m gonna be doing the child size version. The 2–4. And I’m gonna be saying chain six. So the steps involved in-between each one of all of these are the same as far as moving stitch markers around and being able to take you’re information. So for example. I get to round two and it says, one single crochet in the next four, I’ve highlighted it because that’s what I’m gonna do. But if you’re doing other sizes and you’ll just follow which one it is that you’re working on. So when it comes down and you want to do for example up here. It says that we have to complete the sock until its 3 1/2 ” in length. But the other sizes are 4 1/2, 5 1/2, 6 1/2, 7 1/2 and what you’re looking at here is all the different sizes. So any time there is a decision to be made on which ones that you’re working on just look for the one you’re working on in the brackets and that makes it a lot easier. So you can substitute the information but substituting the stitch marker locations and everything its all pretty much the same. You just have to look to this diagram, this pattern in order to follow. So what, when you look at it then from this perspective when you eliminate all of this extra steps out like this. This pattern is really not that big uh, because its having five different patterns on one. If you eliminate just the size you were doing, the next four is that this pattern would be a lot smaller. So let’s review then and let’s do for size substitution we’ve just done. Let’s look at the yarn as our next option. So or you sox you have four options when it comes to Remember they are the makers of Patons and Bernat yarn. So what we have here is that the Patons here, Kroy Socks here, is just the regular brand of Kroy. So you can actually find solid colors if you wish or you can find really interesting mixed combos. This particular sock today I’m gonna use this because this is pretty funky stuff. And let’s turn this over because I know you’re gonna email me and ask me what that is. That’s called Sunset Stripes. And so this is a really kind of a funky kind of yarn. Now Patons also has a Kroy FX where the colors transition really slowly. And so you see that available on their web site and so the different colors that they have is really kind of, the tones really kind of work into each other and really quite nice. So these Patons ones are all considered 75% wool and 25% nylon. And because of that these have wool in them. So people that have wool allergies, this may not be an option for you but Yarnspirations also has Benat Sox which is acrylic. So this has acrylic and, what is the blend here. I have kind of forgotten. So it’s 60% acrylic and and 40% nylon. So it’s the nylon in these particular that make uh, crochet socks worth it. So because it’s made of nylon it can stand the wear and tear. If you’ve ever use and afghan a short time frame You’ll notice that it gets all scuffy and pilly. Because this has got nylon in it these socks will last you years. And so you’ll see that there’s different colors in each one of these lines. There’s one line here and another line here and then the Bernat Sox. So wether you’re allergic to wool then you can do Bernat Sox. If you’re looking for warmth and you can handle the wool and this is another option. So there are lots and lots of color choices and that’s completely up to you. So lets review the stitch markers. So you’re going to notice I left in the stitch markers that I used when I made my little prototype here. And the stitch markers really help you to be able to keep balance and keep your counts. And I just left them in there as I had to make decisions as I, as I went along. So you can see that here and this is actually pretty cool. So what I like to do for stitch markers, you know there’s fancy doodads on the market but I like just honestly just using some spare yarn and we’re gonna use those as our stitch markers. These stitch markers, I wouldn’t even do the pattern if you not even gonna consider to do stitch markers. Once you get to a certain point it says, crochet to the stitch marker and then do this. And then crochet to the next stitch marker and to that. So if you don’t do stitch markers then you don’t know where you’re gonna go. So, it’s really important to have stitch markers and to keep count throughout your pattern. If you’re not gonna count or you don’t have the desire to count then the sock is not meant for you because you gotta do two of them. So it’s not like a one off item like a hat. So you need to keep your counts to make them um, accountable. You are also going to need today is a tape measure in order to measure as you go along. It’s really important that you have one of these in order to keep it in balance. So let’s get ready today. I’ve got my Patons Kroy Socks. You need two balls for the child size all the way to the ladies and the mens size you need three balls of this. You can substitute the Bernat Socks if you wish in order to do this particular pattern. There’s more yardage on this but because this is made of acrylic and not wool. Acrylic is cheaper to manufacture so you’ll notice the price for this is almost in half of this but that’s because its wool versus acrylic. So you’re also going to need a 3.25 mm, size ‘D’ crochet hook today. As full disclaimer, you may see it. I’m actually using a 3.5 which is change the actual um, sock dimensions. But because I’ve already done it with that I wanna do the second one of that so I can maintain it. So if you’re gonna change anything make sure that you keep it equal. So let’s begin at the toe section. And at the toe section we’re gonna start off right away. We’re gonna create a flat to so if you actually look at it from this point of view it’s gonna create flat just like this. And then we’re gonna start expanding so it looks like a triangle at this point. So once we get started the we are going to moving our stitch markers up in order to do the growth of the toe. So we’re gonna get started right on the toe first and move our way up. So leaving a little bit of a longer string than normal. I want you, we’re gonna use a darning needle to hide that in the end. I want you to create a slipknot. And insert you hook in. So remember I am doing the toddler size so just substitute the information on pattern in order to keep it. But all the stitch marker information and everything that we’re gonna be following today is accurate for all sizes. So I’m gonna be chaining six so 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. So we’re gonna hold here for just a second and then we’re gonna start doing a complete revolution around the top of the chain and the bottom next. So starting second chain from the hook so just count it back so 1 and 2. And going into the back loop only of the, of the chain. Okay it does a nicer look and I want you to single crochet that one. And then it says to single crochet the next three okay for this particular size. So 1, 2 and 3 and I’m going a little bit slower then normal today. Think I’m just waking up. So we have this last stitch that’s available to you, the last chain. And in the last one I want you to put three single crochets in there. So that’s gonna cause it to wrap around. So we’re gonna do 1, 2 and 3. Now notice how I kinda just kinda just switched around the chain. So now I want to go along the backside along that same chain and back through. So what you want to do then is that you wanna do one single crochet in each of the next three. So just working your way back along the bottom of the chain because it’s turned over. Put down the straggler so it’s down on top and trap that into position and you got 1, 2 and 3. So what’s gonna happen to keep this in balance. Let me do third one. The camera angle that you’re seeing it at and where I’m sitting behind the camera it not really convenient for me. So I’m a little bit struggling. So the very first one we started off with we wanna put in two single crochets into that first one to complete the revolution going all the way around. See the three on this side where my thumb is moving. So there should be three on this side, you’ve done only one as you moved along. And you wanna put two into the final one. And that completes that kinda turn-a-round. And then you gotta slipstitch to the top first single crochet. So before you move on to the this process. I need you to do a check and you are going to notice that you’re, there’s gonna be a total of twelve stitches going all the way around. You gotta make sure there’s twelve before you move you move on from this process. Again the other sizes are there for the stitch count. So you need to count back. So just looking back underneath. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12. If you do not have twelve and you’re supposed to then you need to stop here because something is wrong. So what you’re gonna be noticing as we move along in this pattern, I’m gonna let this straggler fall out because I’ve buried it. Is that you’re going to notice that this slip stitching line that’s here is going to be along the bottom of the sock going all the way up. Just, do you see it? It’s just slight and so what we’re going to be doing is that every time we’re gonna be doing a slip stitch we’re along the bottom. So I assumed when I did this pattern is that I thought slip stitching would carry up through the side and up but it carries right through the bottom. And so because it’s on the bottom it’s out of sight out of mind for whoever’s wearing it. Let’s move along to the second round. Then we’re gonna play with stitch markers next. So let’s move along. We’re going to start up by chaining one and in the same one as the join you wanna put a single crochet in. And for the toddler size then we have to do single crochet into the next four. So you gotta physically count that out. So let’s go to the next one for 1, 2, 3 and 4. And in the next one what you want to do is put in three single crochets into the next one. So let’s do that three so 1, 2 and 3. Now hold here. The middle one that you just put into there you want to just come back, pull this out and grab a stitch marker and you want to mark it. Okay, it’s not the one that’s right underneath it. It’s the second one back. Okay, that’s the middle one of the three, mark it with a stitch marker. Just pull it through and you need these stitch markers in order to continue. So do not, if you don’t want to commit to stitch markers then turn off the tutorial now. Because this is the only way to keep this in balance and to be growing properly. So now you’re gonna continue along and you’re going to do the next five of single crochets. So 1, 2, 3, and then do the next one, this is 4 and 5. So the next one is going to have three single crochets into it. Okay, so let go to the next one and there’s gonna be three in this one so 1, 2 and 3. Just like that. On the second one of those three put another stitch marker in on that side. Okay, so now you have the other side, and so these stitch markers should be opposite to each other. I think moving stitch markers, I think are what kinda stalls the whole process. But it’s these stitch markers that save you that save you at the end of the day. So now you got you hook back in. And so you will see that the stitch markers are opposite to each other. Do you see that? So we’re gonna continue along and then um, one you get stitch marker in then you just slip stitch it to the beginning one that you started with. And I want you to do a physical count now just to make sure your good. Okay, so in this particular round you should have a total of sixteen. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16. So I have sixteen in a round. If you do not have that then stop. You need to just double check where you are. Because once you get this started these counts make a big difference. So let’s continue along for round number three. So in round number three we’re going to then chain up one and we’re gonna single crochet into the same one as the join. And you’re gonna continue to single crochet in each stitch until you hit the stitch marker. So this is where these stitch markers come into play. I’m not physically counting. I have double checked before I moved on that the last round was correct. And right where that stitch marker is I wanna place in three more single crochets AND I wanna move that stitch marker then up to the middle one of the new three in order to keep that in balance. So here I am in the stitch marker and I wanna just move the stitch marker out of the way. Don’t take it out of your project. Leave it in. So 1 and then 2 and 3 and what I want you to do is come back to the second one of those three just going right in. Grab a piece of that stitch marker and just pull it through. Don’t pull it all the way through. Just leave it so you can see the line. Just like there and then put your hook back in and I want you to continue then around. So just one single crochet into each. So, I’m not even counting because I don’t need to and it doesn’t tell you to. Just tells you to look for stitch markers. And at the next stitch marker that’s coming up, the one after this one you want to put in another three. So just move that stitch marker out of the way so you can do it. So three single crochets into that one and move that stitch marker then up to the middle one of the new three. So 1, 2 and 3. And then go back to the second one of that one and pull through a piece of that stitch marker through ’cause you’ll use that next time. And continue, and you have two stitches left. I can see that there’s two stitches left as an experienced crocheter. So I’m gonna finish those two with a single crochet and then join it. So right here it looks like you have two stitches left to this point but you don’t. This is the carry over. This is leaving over. So make sure that you don’t count that as a stitch and just literally go to the first single crochet and join it with a slip stitch like so. Okay, so this is going to be the conclusion of doing the toe. And now we’re gonna do toe growth from this point forward. So let’s move on to that part of the chapter. So now we’re gonna move along on my chalkboard to the toe growth. We’re gonna expand the front of the toe to be larger. And before we get to the instep where the instep is just a solid round and around. Let’s carry on and to do toe growth next for chapter number two. So let’s carry on in the tow growth. This is round after round number three of doing the toe. And what we’re going to do is five more revolutions now of the exact same thing of what we’ve already earned. So we’re gonna do one single crochet into each but except for these ends we are going to put three single crochets in and mark the middle one and then carry on and then come to this one do three, mark the middle one and then stop. And we wanna do five revolutions of this. You’re going to notice that this is going to expand this circle uh, several times in order to do so. So let’s get you started. I’m gonna do round number one of five with you. Remember the other sizes is the repeating of 6, 7, 8 and 8 um, in order to carry on for those sizes. So make sure you’re just looking at your instructions for those. So for the toddler size it’s only five so this is one. So I’m just doing one single crochet into each. And on a sheet of paper or even on the pattern itself which I did, write on there rows one, two, three, four and five and check it off as you go. So I’m here at the stitch marker once again and I’m just going to move the stitch marker out of the way. Put my three single crochets there so 1, 2 and 3. Come back to the second one, okay, move that stitch marker into the second position okay, actually the stitch marker is on the other side. I gotta pull it through. So I weave these stitch markers in. As much as I over the years have boughten those doodad things for stitch markers. I just find spare yarn is easier to find um, and it’s easier to work with as well. So the middle one is marked so I’m just gonna carry on around with just one crochet into each. You’re going to notice it’s gonna build beautifully as the front of your toe takes shape. And you’re gonna wanna honestly fold it out so the middle is facing towards you when you go to crochet as well. So coming around to the other side you wanna just move the stitch marker out of the way. Putting in your three single crochets there so 1, 2 and 3. Okay, move that stitch marker up to the second one of those three. These stitch markers are the answer to this particular pattern. Okay, and then carry on until you get back to where you get back to where you started. So this stitch um, slip stitching will be in the center area of the sock. It’s not a 100% in the center so don’t expect it to be. But every now and then you want to double check. So every revolution that you do around at this point is gonna grow by three sorry by four stitches. Okay so what we had in the last round is that there was a total of sixteen stitches so now there should be twenty. And then the next time you do it then there should be twenty-four. and then twenty-eight, thirty-two, thirty-six and et cetera. So what you wanna do is you wanna make sure by the time get to your round number five that those increments actually work out to each other and I would physically count it before I move on to get it. So for myself is that for the child size version we’re gonna have a total of forty of these going all the way around once we complete all five of our rows. So complete the rest of these rows growing incrementally just like I showed you and then when we come back then we’re gonna start moving on to the instep but we’ll come back and review before we move on to that process. So I am at the toe and for the size that I’m working on the 2–4. There should be forty stitches going all the way around. I’m gonna show you a cheating technique in just a moment but I want tell you how many stitches there are first. The next child size 6–8 you should have forty-four stitches all the way around. The next size ladies size 5–6 is going to be forty-eight stitches all the way around. And ladies size 7–8 and mens will only have fifty-two going all the way around. So for example, you count and lets just, lets do something. So you count and you realize oh my goodness I’m short one stitch. So instead of forty I ended up with thirty-nine. No big deal you’re on the bottom of the sock any way. So what you can do just one stitch before the final. Just put in two into the same one here and then into the next one and then join it and then you’re back to your forty like you should be. You can do that for all the different sizes. Again, it gonna very unnoticeable. It’s on the bottom and it will keep you in balance. The big trick with these socks is that you wanna make sure the instep is all the same size. So you don’t wanna be messing around with that because it will look different in the span of the sock. So what happens if you are, have an extra. So for example you end up forth-one around instead of forty. Well then you can subtract. So just going into the next stitch pull through, going into the next stitch, pull through and then pull through both and then those two just became one and then you can join and therefore forth-one just became forty by putting two together and you do that on the bottom as well. For myself, I was accurate at the time so this is pretty good. So this is a great way to cheat the technique. I would not frog all the way back out if it were me because A) I am lazy and B) you don’t need to you can pretty well hide that and there’s areas in crochet that you can cheat and then you get yourself back. So now can abandon these stitch markers. I leave them in just for fun. Um, but you’re now done with these stitch markers and I would, actually know what, leave those in. You want to leave those in just to help you in the further step. It doesn’t say to remove it and I did kinda use it when I think about it, out loud. [chuckles] Okay so let’s move on to the next chapter and it’s the instep next. So welcome back to the chalkboard. And we’re back to moving on to the step for the instep for number three. So we’re going to move then from the growth of the toe all the way to where the heel kinda meets up to it and then we’re going to then work our way up from ankle to cuff at that point. So the heel in this particular pattern is done at the very end. But the instep, all it is, is one single crochet going round and around, around, and around until you get to the length that you need. So let’s move along to doing the instep next. So we’re moving on to the instep and and we wanna mark where we are right now with the stitch marker. We wanna take a measurement from here. I actually didn’t do that the first time around and then I had to measure and I was off So what I want you to do just right where you are right now. Just go in and out of a few stitches. So in and just jump over two and back out the other side. And I want you to create a line in your work with another stitcher marker and pull it through and through and then just move down a little bit further and pull it through. And this is going to be a measurement line that we need to go from this point. So the next part of this tutorial as we just go round and around we have to measure a certain distance and the distance is from this particular spot in the, in the crochet project and not from the tip of the toe like I thought originally. So I’m just gonna leave that in just as myself and you can see I did that the original and we need to go and grow a distance. So what we have here for my size 3 1/2 inches and then for the next kids size is it’s 4 1/2. The ladies first size it’s 5 1/2, then for the next size ladies it’s 6 1/2 and for mens it’s 7 1/2. So you’re gonna just continue to go and that’s gonna take you up until this point. where we’re going to then start doing the division to then go up to here and then we’re gonna come back to the cuff after that. So let’s get you started on this and then you’re just gonna need a tape measure in order to measure. And all you’re just gonna do, you don’t need to move up any stitch markers any more. You can just abandon those. You’re just gonna go around in complete circles and you’re gonna notice that the, the bottom of he sock is gonna form. So there’s no growth or subtraction, so just chain up one. And it’s just one single crochet into each and then just join it with a single crochet. So remember what we had in the last part of this chapter is that there was forty stitches going all the way around for my size. You may have had the others sizes and I’ve already indicated those earlier on this tutorial. But you should end up with that same stitch all the way back throughout your instep. Okay so you will never grow and you’ll never subtract So I had forty at this point so when I’m done my instep and I do my 3 1/2 inches that is required from from the stitch marker. The dimensions are from this stitch marker going back once I have that done there still should be forty waiting for me on the other side. So if I’ve got forty-four or if I got less. I know I’ve dropped a stitch along the way. And uh, you just have to make sure that you’re just watching your stitch counts. Occasionally what I like to do is every few rounds I like to just verify and count all forty. Make sure that their there and if they’re not then I know to stop and correct because this is gonna be very noticeable if it’s a different size on your project. So just one single crochet in each going all the way around. Please complete this particular area then for 3 1/2 inches, 4 1/2, 5 1/2, 6 1/2, 7 1/2 depending on what size you’re working on from. And remember that it is from this stitch marker here going for that dimension and not from the tip of the toe. So I’ll leave that with you and we’ll come back and we’ll review the instep of what you did and then we’re gonna move on then to the next part of this tutorial. So I’m back with the instep and I’ve now done my 3 1/2 inches from this stitch marker to here. Now if you’re doing the other sizes it’s 4 1/2, 5 1/2, 6 1/2 and 7 1/2 and then we’re gonna carry on. So now what we need to do is that we need to, um, make sure that you ended up with your proper count. So there’s still forty around mine and you may have forty-four, um, what were my dimensions. It’s forty-four, forty-eight and fifty-two. Make sure you still have the right that you still had when you were back over here. If not just improvise a little bit in order to get it to go. So we’re going to fasten off this yarn. And what I want you to do is I want you just to fasten off and pull through, the string right here and I just want you to just firmly but not crazily, just go in and out of the stitches. Weaving this in for about maybe about almost two inches across. So just in and out of the stitches and in the next revolution what we’re going to do is that we’re gonna capture that underneath the stitches so that you can, um, so that we can do this together So we’re just gonna go in and out, back and forth If you prefer to use a darning needle you can but this will also work too. And because crochet is about knots really um, it will tighten onto itself so it should never fall out anyway. Okay. So I want to take you to the pattern. I wanna point out something to you before we move along to the next part of the process because I think it’s really important. So in the next part of the tutorial we’re gonna do the heel opening of the sock. And what I want you to pay attention to that we’re gonna come back to when we do the heel. Is right here. So the number’s thirty-eight, forty-two, fifty-two, fifty-six and fifty-eight all mean something. And what this is, is that this is the number of stitches that are left in the heel in the opening as we go to close it. And I think it’s really important to recognize this right now so right now when I was up here I actually have forty. But you will notice here when we go to do this next process that we’re going to be skipping over two. And that’s gonna happen for all the different sizes so that it ends up being a different size here. So forty went down to thirty-eight, forty-four went to forty-two, fifty-four went down to fifty-two, and so forth and so forth. And so because of that we end up, uh, its just a easier to identify how many stitches are in the heel if you’re looking to this number and really kinda thinking about it as you go. So let’s move along on the next part of this tutorial. We’re gonna from the ankle to the cuff next. So welcome back to the chalkboard. We’re now on chapter number four of the ankle to the cuff. We are going to create a space then where the heel should go and we’re gonna go from where we are right now all the way to the top of the cuff. The cuff is underside of the jeans that you cannot see and the cuff is really quite easy in itself. So let’s move along to the next part for the ankle to the cuff in chapter number four. So let’s then create the opening for the heel as we move from the ankle to the cuff. So the underside is going to be is where the heel is going to be. So just visualize that. So if you look at the original. Here is the seam line here. Here is the cuff. Okay? So what we are going to do is that we’re going to start with the front side and work our way up. And what we want to do is that turn this over this is the seam line. Turn it over and found it roughly in half. So I’m going to ask you to put some trust into the system right now, and grab two more stitch markers and right where its folded in half. So just look dow at the bottom here. Okay, so just look, see these stitch markers here they were right in the pockets of, basically it’s like a game of pool. But fold it so that these are kind of right in the edges like this and then just slid your fingers up and you get the halfway spot. Okay, so what I want you to do, grabbing a spare piece of thread and going right into an edge. You notice I have not counted anything? Okay, so I’m just gonna go right into an edge and pull through a stitch marker. Like so. Leave it there and then come into the other side and just roughly go into the other side and do the same thing. You not thinking that I’m not gonna count right? You’re not thinking that crazy kinda idea. But what I want you to do now is now we’re gonna count. And you’re gonna do this for all sizes but watch what I’m gonna do in order to make it easier for myself. So I’m bringing back the pattern. I folded it in half but how am I gonna double check if I got it right. So it says one single crochet in the same space as the chain one where we’re gonna join on. And then nineteen single crochets after that. That give you a total of twenty. So this twenty-one will give you a total of twenty-two. This one will be twenty-seven, twenty-nine, thirty, okay. So you’re looking at this. So what I want you to do is that I want you to pull back your project and I want you to count which includes the stitch markers. So in my case it will be twenty. Okay, so look at the size that you’re doing. So, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20. So I’m off by one strand. So what I’m gonna do is that I’m just gonna move one stitch marker over So I’m gonna pull it out and I’m gonna recount one more time. Okay, so that’s how you’re gonna double check. Okay so let’s do that again. So just double count. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20. So there you are, okay. So you will have what ever sizes you’re working on. That will be how you’re figuring it out. So I’m looking at the top side of the sock and what we’re gonna do is start right here. And we’re gonna and when we, we’re gonna go across this row here and then right when we get to the stitch marker. We’re gonna go into that final one and we’re gonna do a chain and create an opening space that is on the back the we’ll fill in later. So we’re gonna be coming across and we’re gonna do a chain which then take us here and this area will be completely missing. So let’s move along to the first round of doing this and let’s grab our yarn back up and let’s join it back in. So let’s rejoin our yarn. Do not create a slip knot. Just create a loop, okay, just like this. Okay, so no loops, no ties, no nothing. You don’t need it. So I want you to come in right where the first stitch marker is, slide in and I want you to pull that loop through. Okay, let the straggler, the loos end just fall down on top of the project. And you’re gonna trap that into position going across. So you’re just gonna chain one, and into the same one you’re going to single crochet. So this is one and then is said to do one single crochet in the next nineteen. So there’s a total of twenty so let’s count those out anyway. So leaving the straggler down on top. Capture it right underneath. So we got 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15, 16, 17, 18 and 19 is the final one where the stitch marker is. So you notice I just dragged that other, starting strand right underneath. And so what I’m gonna do now is that I dragged it right underneath, you can’t even see it. I’m just gonna safely trim that piece out. And you’ll never see that starting strand. So now that you’ve gotten here we need to create a chain to jump over to create the space for the heel. So for the child size version that I’m working on right now, it’s gonna be a chaining of eighteen. The other sizes are a chaining of twenty, twenty-five, twenty-seven or twenty-eight. Says to chain loosely, so just be calm with your with your chaining so we’re gonna go 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 1, 12, 13,14, 15, 16, 17 and 18. So I’m just going to then just join it to the beginning so just come right over, just keep rotating to where you started and right in the first single crochet I want you to slip stitch in. So just take you time getting it in. [chuckles] In my case I don’t think its a choice. So we’re just gonna join it there. Okay. It’s gonna be a little bit tight because we’ve joined on our yarn. So now what you’ve done is you’ve gone all the way around. It just happens to be changing color as I did it. But now you’ve got a space for the heel that is appearing in behind. So what we have to do, is that, did you notice something. We did a total of twenty or sorry, of ten, of twenty. So did you notice that we did a total of twenty single crochets. So we did single crochet in the first one, nineteen in the next. And then there’s a total of eighteen chains. So you noticed that we’ve just gone from forty revolutions now to thirty-eight by changing the chain. And that just makes it a little bit tighter than for the, the ——– ___ of going up to the cuff. So let’s begin the next part of the process and this is just really quite easy. There’s no increasing or decreasing required. We’re just going to chain one and we’re gonna do one single crochet into each of the single crochets all the way around until we get to the chain again. So you can see I’m not really counting, I don’t need to. So what we’re going to do on the chain is that you really got to take you time with that chain. You really gotta do that. Um, it’s one of those items where if you’re if you’re sloppy with your chain your um stitches when you go to join the heel back in will not look good. I’m not trying to scare you. I’m just being honest. Okay, so one single crochet into each, going into the way to the final one before the chain starts. The stitch marker will give you the clue as well. I would leave in that stitch marker where we left it before then it will give you clues then when we go to do the heel. So don’t remove that out yet. Okay, so here’s the one just before the chain. So in the chain what I want you to do is grab only one strand of string only. Okay, one strand and I want you to single crochet. Count those out to be nineteen. So 1 and 2, sorry it’s to be eighteen, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, I’m taking my time. 9, 10, 11, 12 okay, so I grabbed two strands there by accident. Just only grab one. There’s 12, 13, I keep grabbing two strands there 13, It is so highly important that you take your time with this chain. Okay. And continuing to work across. You only want a total of eighteen of these things. And right to the end one. And then once you have that done. What you’re just gonna do is just join it to the beginning single crochet that you started with. So now it’s gonna get really easy at this point to all the way to the top of the cuff. So just slip stitch it to the beginning Like so. Okay, so you can see that this is what it looks like. You can see that the hole’s been left for the cuff oh sorry, for the heel and then this area is the top where you’re gonna slip your foot into. So this is pretty much as easy as it’s gonna get. And what I want you to do is that we’re going to then continue to make this area all the way to the top of the cuff. And let’s review that in just a moment. So as per the pattern you want to just continue just to chain up one in one single crochet going in each all the way around. You’re gonna continue to do that as we go all the way to the top of the cuff. Or sorry all the way to the bottom of the top of the cuff. And what we want to do for the size the we’re working on, the toddler, um, it is gonna be a total of three inches. The next child size if four inches, the first ladies, second ladies and mens will be a total of five inches. So right where you’re going to measure is right where the back of the heel is and making sure that you have that inch is all the way to the bottom of the cuff. They’re all pretty much, close to the same height. So continue to do that and when I come back I will have that done. And then we’ll start the cuff together. And uh, we’ll just quickly then review and then move on to the heel as a conclusion for today’s tutorial. So move on and continue to go all the way around for the dimensions of the top of the area that you’re working with now. So now I’m back. I may have spent I think about twenty-five to thirty minutes just to do this little space. This is three inches then then for the toddler size. If you’re doing the other sizes remember it’ll be either four, five, five or five. Depends on what size you’re working on. Now we’re ready for the cuff and when we look at the other example here. So the cuff is just being added. You see it has ridges to it. It’s actually not hard to maintain we’re just gonna start off and uh, get the cuff ready to do and then we’re gonna do it. So let’s begin and move on to the next part of this chapter of doing the cuff which is five. So we’re back now on the chalkboard and it’s time for the cuff area that is underneath the jeans that you cannot see. It’s a ribbed look and it’s not very big and it’s really quite easy to do but it’s gonna take a few rounds in order for us to get that established and then we’re off to the races at that point. So let’s do the cuff next. So welcome back. We’re gonna do the cuff and this is what it looks like here. You can see it’s a ribbed look and because its a rib it will have stretchability to it. Leads into the tube area and then goes down, down. So right now where we are is that we got our three inches done for this particular size. You will have different sizes if you’re working on um, um, size of sock. And it could be up to four or five inches in this length. So let’s begin and we’re gonna start doing the cuff. We didn’t fasten off. We’re gonna keep on going and let’s form the cuff next. So let’s begin round number one. In round number one all sizes will have us decreasing a few time before we start on with the cuff itself. So it provides it to be a little more stronger at the top so that it doesn’t want to slip down on ya. So we’re gonna chain up one and we’re gonna single crochet into the first one and if you look at the instructions it says you need to single crochet into the next six after this. So let’s do that. So 1, and the other sizes are there for the different dimensions for that. So that was 2 and we got 3, 4, 5 and 6. So essentially what you have here is seven. Okay so you single crocheted in the first one and then it says to single crochet into the next six so that gives you a total of seven. Now if you’re doing the other sizes you will notice that there’s different denominations there. So it would have been seven, eight, nine or ten. So now we’re gonna do the decrease. So we’re just gonna go into the next stitch, pull through, and then go into the next stitch pull through, so you got two stitches in a row, and then yarn over and pull through all three of those loops. And those two just became one to make it smaller. So for the toddler size it’s seven in a row. So its 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 and then the next two are together. Again that decreasing distance is depending on the size that you’re working on. So continue to do that all the way around. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 and then the next two are together. You keep doing that all the way around. So 1, 2, so you’ll notice you get all the way around and you just do you two together and wait a minute. You got some stitches left over. You got four left over. And if you look at the instructions you will have a difference of stitches that are left over at the end. And it will say four, four, ten, ten, or eleven. And then all you just got to do because you got four left over you just gotta do one single crochet into each. So when you do the two together all the way around it doesn’t equal like a regular hat where the last two stitches would be together. So just gotta watch our for that. Okay so that’s how you go and now we’ve just decreased a little bit and it will make it a little bit tighter And now we’re ready for the cuff area. And let’s get that started and it gets easier from this point. So to start the cuff we’re gonna chain up one and then single crochet into the same one below chain one, skip one, single crochet into the next one, chain one, skip one, single crochet into the next, please do that all the way around. So you’re skipping every other one with a chain one between them. So when you get all the way back around remember it’s chain one and then go into the last one and before you join it you gotta chain one first and then join to the beginning single crochet. Okay, so you have the chain one spaces in-between and basically we’re gonna get it started. So we’re not ready for the cuff ribbing look yet we have to establish them. Half double crochets and double crochets in the next one. Let’s do that. So let’s start this round. We’re gonna chain up two and then in the same stitch we wanna half double crochet. So here’s the trick with this one. In the single crochets below you’re always a half double crochet, in the chain one space it’s gonna be a double crochet. Okay, so the next one is a half double crochet because its a stitch. And then the next one is a double crochet because its in the chain one space between the stitches. So that’s the secret to this one so just do that all the way around. It’s really quite a no brainer. So just going into each one and just give it the right stitch that it needs. So it’s half double crochets in stitches and double crochets in chain one spaces. Please do that all the way around. Okay, coming up all the way back around and I’m just following exactly what I need to do and there’s the last half double crochet and remember there was a chain one space before the join. So the last one is a double crochet. And then just join it to the top of the first half double crochet there. Okay? So that becomes established. You don’t see any ribbing yet. but this is ready now and we’re now ready to start the cuffing area at this point. So let’s just do this area and let’s show you how to do the ribs. So the next part is gonna establish the ribbing area and we have to continue to do that next round over and over and over until we get to 1 1/2″ in thickness for the cuff And this is for my size that I’m working on. Also for the next child size 1 1/2″ and then the rest of the sizes are all 2 inch cuffs. So to begin this we’re gonna chain up two which counts as, um, as nothing and we’re gonna double crochet in the same space as the join. And now here’s the thing. The next double crochet do you that it’s in the chain one space right underneath it. That’s gonna get a front post double crochet. So wrap the hook, going into the side of the post, pop it back out the other side. Pull through, pull through two and two. And that just now creates a ribbing. So the next one is a half double crochet. So just match it with a half double crochet. And then the next one is a double crochet so put a front post double crochet. So wrap the hook, going into the side, pull through, pull through two and two. Next one is half double crochet so match it. So just do exactly what you see below and just match everything up so that it works out to be all the way around. I’m gonna meet you at the end of this revolution and then I’m gonna expect you to get your full cuff done because its just a matter of repeating this. So the next time do this is that the cuff area of what I’m about to do, the front post double crochet will just go around the same one to make sure that the ribbing actually follows all the way to the top of the cuff. So continue to do that all the way around. Okay, so I’m just continuing to go all the way around. I’m just matching exactly what I already explained to you. And here’s the last one of the double crochet that’s in. So I’m matching that one and then I just join it to the top of the first half double crochet that I started with. So all the other revolutions are basically building on what you see already. So you’re gonna chain two and half double crochet into the same one. The next one is a half double, uh, double crochet here, do you see that? And you’re just gonna do a front post double crochet there to maintain that rib. And then the next one is just a half double crochet into that half double crochet. And then the next one is a front post double crochet to match. So I want you to continue to do this. For my size its 1 1/2″ for the height and that’s for both the child sizes. The ladies and the mens are both 2″ for the cuff heights for those two. Please continue to do that and we’ll meet you back and we’ll fasten off our yarn together and then we’re gonna for the heel after that. So now I’ve just finished my cuff. If I’m on my second one. I wanna make sure I hold my first one up make sure it is the same. Okay, so it would obviously be the same kind of coloration. I just decided to have a little fun with today’s tutorial. I want you to fasten off and now we’re gonna grab our darning needle. Now this is where you gotta be very careful. So we’re just gonna pull the string through and I’m gonna feed this onto a darning needle. Now here’s the thing. You’re cuff has elasticity now built into it and you can ruin it by this strand right here. So what you wanna do, you wanna hide this in. Okay, let me just do this. Hide it in and just don’t go too far. Just go about yea there about four stitches. Okay, just right underneath and pull through, going back in the other direction for twice. So that’s the second time and then going back in the other direction for a third time. It’ll never fall out if it goes in and out three times. So now I can safely cut that. So you didn’t want to put that strand too far into the cuff around because once that string will never stretch itself but the the other parts can. So now this is what it looks like and what’s missing. Hmmm, [chuckles] it’s obviously the bottom heel. So we’re gonna move on to that part of the tutorial next and let’s begin to do that. So this is it. We’re now back on the chalkboard and now it’s for the final part. And this is the heel, number six. And now we’re gonna fill in the space. The heel will go really quickly. A lot of instructions here on the page but really when you see how it’s done [chuckles] you’re gonna love it. It’s actually quite quick. So let’s begin to work on the heel next. So let’s begin to work on the heel and what we have for the instructions is right here. So let’s start here. Remember early on in this tutorial I told there was a secret number of like thirty-eight um, and all of those particular stitches. You can see it here, so thirty-eight, forty-two, fifty-two, fifty-six, fifty-eight. So this is what is going in on this particular round so let me pull back the, the sample. So that number thirty-eight is how many stitches should be right here and going all the way around. So the first revolution is to get started. So what I want you to do is that looking at the bottom of the sock agin you can see here is the slip stitching, okay, here’s the toe. And I want you to count over, in this case I want you to count to the tenth. Now this is for my size, it’s eleventh, thirteenth, fourteenth and thirteenth for the other sizes. So you don’t count the one where the stitch marker is already in because that’s already god something else from up here. Okay? So you just move up to the next one and and just go ten. So here’s the thing. Okay, let me just um, attach my yarn so I don’t loose that spot. So I’m just gonna wrap my hook sorry wrap my loop around my hook. I’m not gonna tie anything and just pull it through and I’m going to use that. So because this is the tenth one and we knew that there was twenty going this bottom space if you remember there should be ten stitches left here before you get to this other stitch marker. Which there is in my case. So you’re right actually right half way in the center of your sock when you go to do this. That really matters at this particular point. Okay, so what we want to do is that we want to start off and we want to chain one and single crochet into the same one. Leave this straggler down on top of the work so you can trap it into position. Okay, now it says to single crochet into the next eight. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and notice I got the straggler down underneath. That was 6, 7 and 8. And then we just continue along. So you see here that you got two stitches left here before we jump over to this chain. So just jumping over. So you’ve got to do the next twenty I believe. Does it say twenty? Yes, twenty. You have different ones for the other sizes. So you got 1 and 2 and now we just automatically jump down okay, so just look down and get the next stitch that’s in a row. Twenty oh sorry this is 3 and now I’m on that beginning chain remember so this is 4, make sure you get two strings on top, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, and we got 15, 16, 17, 18 and I’m just looking to where I am so I’m out of stitcher here at 18. I look to the next one that’s available here, this is 19 and 20. And then it says to do the next, last nine so 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9. So I’m just gonna – 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9. And then we’re just gonna join it with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning one. So now we’re gonna start playing with our stitch markers again. So this is what it looks like then all the way around. Okay. So let’s begin and let’s move on to round number two and you’re gonna need stitch markers for this point forward. So get two of them ready for you. So get two stitch markers ready for you and let’s begin. So we’re gonna chain up one. And it says to do one single crochet in the same one, so 1. and one single crochet into the next six for this size. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. And now here’s what’s gonna happen. The next two are gonna be together. So we’re just gonna insert in, pull through, and go into the next one and pull through, so you got two there. Pull through all three loops and that was 1. Single crochet into the next one but wait, watch. Because you’ve single crocheted this one I want you to put a stin, a stitch marker right where you single crocheted. This is so important. Okay, so put a stitch marker there. And then I want you then, the next two are together. So just advancing, the next two, put them together. Okay, so the stitch marker, so there’s two together, two together, with one single crochet in-between and that’s where the stitch marker is. And if you’re confused on where you are on this project We’re right here. So the stitch marker then is gonna be the half way point in-between, to gather together. So let’s carry on along the back side and it says one single crochet in the next fourteen. So let’s count these out so 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, okay and 12, 13 and 14. Okay so the next two are gonna be together, so going into the next one and then the next one after that, put those together. The next one is a single crochet. That’s where I want you to put this stitch marker on this side. So just grab another one. Okay and then the next two are together. Okay, so there is the halfway point established on that side. And then it say to uh, one single crochet into the last seven. So you got 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 and you’re done. Okay, so then that was just the second round and your stitch markers in. It gets easier now from this point once these stitch markers are established. So let’s begin to do round number three. For round number three we’re just going to do one chain one and one single crochet in the same one as the join. And round number three we’re just gonna let ourselves take our time and getting bigger for the heel and this is just one single crochet into each all the way around. So no big deal. So here’s the thing. When you pass those stitch markers you need to transfer those stitches up. So that you capture it next time. The is the only time that you’re just gonna do one single crochet all the way around without doing anything special. Okay so the next one is the stitch marker coming in, pulling through, pull through and move that stitch marker up to that space. So this is the only time you’re just gonna do one single crochet around. And then the rest of it is just a rapid decrease from this point. Okay so just carrying on. We just uh, get our hand pack into position here. And we’re just going to do one, continue to one single crochet into each going all the way to the next stitch marker. And we’ll move that one up at the same time as well. So this is round number three. I was kinda surprised when I ran into this in the pattern. I expected it to be like a really quick decrease. But when you see the sock done you realize that you know, sometimes you just gotta take your time. Okay so here’s the next stitch marker right there. Okay, its not this one its the next one. So going in, do the stitch and then pull the stitch marker up into that stitch. Okay. So then we just make our way back to then the starting point of this particular heel. Actually we’re starting with the slip stitch. And then we’re gonna move up to round number four. And then round number four is basically the establishing of uh, making it a lot easier as we go around as well. So four and five actually. Okay, so coming all the way back around and we join it. Like so. So let’s carry on and let’s go on to round number four. So now for the duration of the project we don’t really have to worry about too much of counting or anything. So we’re just gonna chain up one. We’re gonna look for the stitch markers and we’re gonna single crochet ourselves until we get to two stitched before the stitch marker. And guess what we gonna do. We’re gonna put two together. In the stitch marker is just gonna be one single crochet. And then the two after that will be two together. So here’s the stitch marker. So then the first two will be the two before that will be put together. Okay, the one with the stitch marker will be just a regular single crochet. And I need you to move that stitch marker up then. Once you do that you’re really, really relying on these stitch markers to be accurate at this point. And then the one right after it the next two are going to be two together. Okay, so then you just continue to single crochet across until you get to the next stitch marker and then the two before it will be together, the stitch marker will be one single crochet and then two together after it. Okay so looking for the stitch marker, it’s right there. So you got two more stitches to go before I decrease. Okay, so here it is. Here’s the two I’m gonna put those two together. Single crochet in that one. Move up the stitch marker because you’ll need to reference it again. And then the two right after it is gonna be two together as well. And now you’re just making you’re way back to the slip stitch. So I’m going to show you one more time and and then you just gotta repeat this for three more time after I show you. And uh, basically then take a darning needle which I’ll show you how to do um to fasten it and remove all you stitch markers and you’re one sock is good to go. So join it and let’s move on to the next round. Which is gonna be a repeat round for a total of three additional times. So let’s start this round, we’re gonna chain up one and it’s the same as what you’ve already just done so just chain up one, one single crochet into each except for right before the stitch markers. You’re gonna repeat this for a total of four times. Okay, so which includes this particular revolution. And you’re looking for that stitch marker to give you the clues on where to stop. So here’s two before the stitch marker, so those two are together. The stitch marker is just gonna be one single crochet by itself. Move that stitch marker up because you’ll reference it three more times because you have to repeat this a total of four times. Well this is the fourth one sorry. So I guess at this point you have to repeat this three times after you see me do it. The two right after the, the single crochet stit, slip, [chuckles] marker or the stitch marker is gonna be two together and then one single crochet into each. So you’re running our of stitch a lot quicker now. because you’re eliminating four stitches out for every revolution at this point. So I’m gonna leave you then to do the rest of this on your own. Um, so it’s just three more revolutions of this. So here’s two right before the stitch marker so put those two together. The stitch marker is just one single crochet. Move that stitch marker up so you can find it next time. So hopefully by this point in the tutorial you see the relevance of these stitch markers. They really, they can save you a lot of time even they kind of slow you down a little bit it’s the only way to stay accurate. So the two right after it is gonna be two together and then you just go right back to the beginning for the stitch or for the slip stitch. So continue to do this three more time and then meet me back here um, and then I’ll show you how to sew in the bottom heel area. Okay? So I’ll see you back then and uh, we’re almost done so just keep on smiling then lets go. So I’ve now just finished this and I have a little bit of a space and I want to cut my yarn which I already have and I’m just gonna pull it off like this. Now I wanna address two things. I wanna close this off but I also I also wanna close off this side here. So usually what happens is that you end up with a little bit of a space and so that’s where a darning needle come in handy. Um, it’s one of those things with crochet it’s really almost unavoidable unless you’re gonna do some really fancy footwork going up forward. So let’s jus turn it inside out okay and I can see the hole here. And the yarn is somewhere to be found, there. So what I want to do is that I want to look here and I wanna kinda, just before I close this in I can stick my finger and kinda just see how much of my skin is gonna come through. and I can see that I’m gonna have a big of an opening here . So what I’m gonna do, this is just my own personal preference. You can do whatever you wanna do.[chuckle] So I’m gonna cut two strands because I’m gonna do one on each side. So what I’m wanna do is that I’m gonna close that off first. So I’m just gonna create a slip knot. And this is on the inside and I wanna grab buy darning needle. And I wanna close that out so just put my needle on there and I would do this on both sides if it were me. Obviously, you have two sides of it. So what I wanna do is what I wanna do is slide it into some of the stitch work don’t go all the way obviously through. But I just wanna go through some stitch work to kinda pull it together. See how much space you can see within there. That’s how much space its gonna be if you’re wearing it. So you’re gonna pull it through but when you get to the slip knot just put it through the slip knot and that will lock it. Okay, and then I wanna go into another direction of pulling this together the other way. This really bothers me about knit and crochet socks. This particular area. So what I like to do is I know it bothers me so I like to just like address it. So I just go a few times in and out and I’m just making sure that its not stuck to the other side. And once I’m satisfied with that I’m just gonna tie quick little knot. You don’t want any big, big knots in this thing because you’re gonna feel them. Okay, so just going in and out of the stitches just to lock that in. Now, the starting strand that we had okay, is right here and want I to do is just glide that in and so then I can cut both of those strands without any worry. And I’m gonna do this on the other side as well to close that in. So I’m just gonna glide it through the same colors . Okay, and I’m staying on this side of the fibers so it doesn’t show on the other side. There you go. So now I can safely cut that out. I can cut the other one that we had done. And I’m gonna do the same on the other side so I don’t have to show you that. Now I’m gonna take the strand that is leading toward the back of the heel and I wanna fold the heel in a way that I can access it. So I’m just gonna pull it out. To be flat like this and I’m gonna insert my, so I’m just inserting my yarn through the needle and all I just wanna do it just glide my uh, yarn needle through the stitches itself. So just matching them up. It’s very much like joining a granny square. With a whip stitch just over the top. This stitch will appear on the underside so that it won’t be visible to people if you’re wearing it. So go all the way across. This is the heel area so you might wanna consider just going back across one last time. You’ll obviously get a lot of use out of these socks in this area of the foot. Once you’re done then just glide the needle through. Goes in like butter. Goes in one way glide back in the other direction. Glide it in the other direction one last time. So if you go in and out three time it should never fall out on ya. Just like that and you can cut it right down. So off camera what I’m gonna do is I’m gonna secure the other side. This is just starting strands that I buried as I went. So I can get rid of that out. I’m just gonna go and clean up. I’m gonna pull out all my stitch markers that I’d used throughout the project. And then when we come back then I’ll show you the final of this and you can see that this turned out pretty good. So this is remember this is the inside of it. So you just gotta flip it outside right. So I’ll be back in just a moment. So this is it. This is the final. Look how amazing that is. Isn’t that really cute? And I think it turned out really great. The seam lines look amazing. You barely them and I think its a great example of creativity. You can do this in any size that you want to. Remember today we went through the toe. We increased it from the toe. We did the instep, we did the ankle to cuff. We did the cuff and then the heel. And so when you break it down in steps all this is not as intimidating may appear. So until next time I’m Mikey on behalf of The Crochet Crowd as well as have a great and I’ll see you again real soon. Bye, bye. 👋


  • nice SOCs thanks!

  • Please do a tutorial for the top down pattern as well!

  • Why do we need to cut the yarn if we are just continuing on? I haz confusion.

  • Hey Mikey! Love this video!
    When doing the half double crochet after the front post double crochet, are you going into the bridge of the half double crochet below it? (like in the previous row?

  • Love the pattern. Just one question could you do the instep in a round without slip stitching at the end of each row, like some of the hats etc. Thanks again really enjoy your tutorials

  • Would be much easier to follow along if the yarn was not so dark. Can't really see the stitches.

  • I love your videos. Best tutorials out there very thorough and so diverse. I'm young and no one I know crochets that an help so I watchtower videos over and over until I get it right. So helpful!!

  • Thanks for giving a yarn that can be used by people that are allergic to wool. I get so frustrated when I find a pattern or yarn I love only to find that it is made with wool or a wool blend.

  • your videos are get create prolem

  • After many tries of starting and frogging socks I now understand. Awesome tutorial! Thank you!

  • wondering if i can use worsted weight yarn for this tutorial… would like to use the same hook as the pattern calls for but i realize for the size i want i may have to do the size lower but unsure where to start

  • great tutorial! thank you!

  • I've been highlighting the ones I need since I started reading patterns! It makes it so much easier!!

  • hi there… love your channel! But, the link for the pattern is down 🙁 it says "error"! I'd love to have this pattern with snow just around the corner! Any chance it getting fixed anytime soon?.. hugs.. michelle

  • Do I have to leave those two stitches when I start the instep?

  • This proyect IS NOT for beginers. Your title is misleading.

  • hi, I watched the video, and read the pattern, but I noticed that your instep has a straight line down the bottom, and mine is pulling to the left. I'm following the pattern, and your instructions, but you cut the video before showing how you finished that first row on the instep. I'm worried I missed something. How can I get that straight line?

  • hi, I watched the video, and read the pattern, but I noticed that your
    instep has a straight line down the bottom, and mine is pulling to the
    left. I'm following the pattern, and your instructions, but you cut the
    video before showing how you finished that first row on the instep. I'm
    worried I missed something. How can I get that straight line? Please reply.

  • trying to read the pattern gave me a headache ? will try to follow along from the vid

  • Can you keep going on the ankle to cuff section to make knee socks?

  • Thank you for this tutorial. I'm free handing a pair of slippers for my best friend and needed your guidance on how to do a heel. I enjoy watching your tutorials while I'm snuggling my 7 month old son at night. It puts him to sleep, and I get to learn new techniques ?

  • Great tutorial!

  • I'm having a little trouble. I'm doing a ladies 5/6 and no matter how many times I frog and start over. I keep coming up with 19 after the first round. I thought maybe one of them was a "fake" stitch so did a slip stitch to the next one. after round 7 my project was decidedly lopslided. I just can't seem to figure out what I'm doing wrong. Is it at all possible the written pattern could be off on the count at the beginning?

  • How would I add to this to make a Women's 9/10? I'm a size 10, and my 10-year-old daughter already wears a women's 9.

  • this was so helpful! thanks 🙂 by the way if the socks dont fit can you enlarge them in warm water maybe? any idea?

  • I think it's important to mention that you're crocheting in a circle like a hat, not zigzagging back and forth like a scarf. It took me 4 frustrating tries before I realized this perhaps "obvious" mistake.

  • Can you actually wear these socks?? Or are they bulky and lumpy to wear?? The pic in the tutorial on the model foot seems to be slouchy and non-fitting..

  • Thanks for the video!

  • For the end of the toe portion in the men's size: why do you say that there should be 52 stitches when the pattern says 60 stitches? Is there an error somewhere, or am I missing something?

  • I'd like to know if you could do the other sock pattern from Yarnspirations ? It started with the ribbing and somehow I'm missing it on the ribbing and how it joins for the rounds?

    My apologies for this question not related to this particular sock pattern. Please help?

  • hy I love you tutorials do you make gloves summer gloves

  • When you are doing the growth sections. Do you slip stitch, chain 1, and sc in same spot as slip stitch every round?

  • I'm going for it! I've been practicing with the smaller hook for a scarf and am ready – hehehe – the video is very helpful and I loved all your tips. Without it, the pattern would be quite difficult for me. Boom! Thank you!

  • Hi there. The instep seam veers off to the side instead of being straight. Could you tell me what I did wrong? Can I just work in a continuous round instead of having to slip stitch at the end of each row?

  • I know you were not very comfy with the angle you were at, but you've gotten so fast over the past couple of years, that I've come to appreciate whatever slows you down 🙂

  • When you are doing the instep, do you just keep going around each time or do you come to the end of the row and do a slip stitch then start the next row? (Very beginning sock crocheter). Thank you for your video, I may just try this. Have been wanting to make socks and mittens for years. Basically I'm at a ripple afghan stage!

  • yOUR loosing me at the slip stitch to a new row parts…

  • I'm making a sock for my puppy because everytime my family has socks on she likes to get them, so I'm making one for her ?. But she messed up the yarn I'm using rn and I'm trying to find the end of it

  • Is there any way to adjust to get rid of the wrinkle of extra fabric on the top of foot where it turns to ankle?

  • Thank you Mikey! I have been crocheting for 35 years and I've learned so much more watching your videos! You've helped me expand my skills and knowledge!

  • Could I use pipsqueak yarn for a 4 yr old?

  • I crochet socks before, but I love yours I like the way u did the heel this is the first time to see this method, nice & clean finishing.
    Thanks for sharing God bless

  • this pattern is ridiculous

  • Hi needing a sock for a men’s uk size 14 . Do I just increase the length of the foot only ?

  • This would work for me if it was done very large to see the stitches and a light or bright color.

  • Excellent thanks Mickey! You can teach me crocheting any day

  • Is there a pattern for a ladies size 9 sock?

  • This was a great video!!! I have been crocheting for the last 15-ish years and have only made washcloths and a few blankets…using only a single crochet. This video was SO easy to follow, and now I am hooked. I can't wait to make more socks for like everyone!

  • The swallowing is no joke. Is he eating yarn?

  • omg!!!!! I am reading the instructions watching the video and still have too many stitches!!!!!!! WHHHHHHYYYYYYYYYY been trying all day and cannot manage this, been crocheting for years I do not understand why something this simple is not adding up

  • Can you crochet socks with thrums, in one of your tutorials?

  • Yarn is too dark to folloew

  • I wish it was for adults cuz now i dont know how to knit socks for adults

  • How do you handle the sizing of the sock if you wear a size 11 shoe and have an ankle circumference of 12". Thank you.

  • Does anyone know if we can use super fine sock yarn for this pattern?

  • I can't make the heal can you make a simpler one please

  • I finished my first pair of socks, I did the ladies 7/8 and it's a bit big, but the 5/6 is perfect. I found however that it does take almost 3 balls of Paton's sock yarn for the ladies 5/6 and definitely 3 balls for the ladies 7/8.

    I really like my socks, the first pair I did are a bit gnarly, uneven seams etc, but I think they're cool. The pair I'm working on now are much better — using the sunset stripes and it's beautiful.

    Oh, and I 'm a bare beginner and I found the pattern very doable with several frog outs.

  • Oh, my shoe size is a ladies' 10, btw.

  • Can you make the cuff taller?

  • Where can I get the written pattern?!

  • Can you use 4 ply yarn instead of sock yarn to make these? Just use a smaller hook with it?

  • Started this sock yesterday and I’m lost at the heel

  • Fantastic tutorial! It's a goal of mine this year, to crochet a pair of socks. I wonder if instead of slip stitch to join, can I work in a spiral? May be us a different stitch marker (the safety pin clip ones) for that stitch. Do you think it would effect the desired result? I will try this pattern and the Bernat Basic sock pattern. So excited! Thank you Mikey! Fun color choices by the way, just enough color for fun with visible content.

  • You rock Mikey!!

  • Ladies' Sizes then Mens, sorry if you're a lady sasquatch, you'll have to go with a men's size. xD I know this video is 2 years old. Thank you for making these videos, they're super helpful for people no matter when they become a hooker! 😀

  • I keep when i first start i get 13 sts and not 12 will someone please tell me what im doing wrong ive had to undo my yarn like 6 times now and i really dont want to give up on this patternt but im getting frustrated

  • It's obvious that this pattern isn't working. I don't know if I should try this or wait until the new video comes up to do the right thing???

  • Hello, I have been doing this pattern for the past few hours and I keep getting 19 stitches instead of 18 on the first count. I have no idea what I am doing wrong and I am following every direction you give. I have tried to do the pattern a few different ways and it still isnt turning out, do you know what I could possibly be doing wrong?

  • K

  • Thanks, Mikey! This is a great tutorial, and I know I can be successful following along. ?

  • Do you count the slip stitch ? I am having trouble understanding how to count. Could someone post a diagram of how to count from the fist stitch to the slip stitch ?

  • I love socks. This is a great tutorial for me to learn Thanks Mikey. You are awesome

  • My daughter shoe size is a 10 which size would I choose?

  • Heel instructions are absolutely confusing. This is NOT for beginners.

  • Wow! Man crochets socks better than me! Thank you very much for your video. Now I have a hobby for whole winter time.

  • I have knitted socks with Paton Kroy and love the yarn. it washes, dries and wears well. The problem I have is I can't get any of the patterns from Yarnspirations to download. Can you help? I'm dying to crochet a pair.

  • Ive been crocheting for 4 years now, and I would consider this pattern intermediate. The first sock was tricky, but the second one was much easier after getting the hang of it.

  • Hi Mike I'm looking for the written pattern that you have in your video…I really appreciate this from you, making socks for my 30 year old grandson who needs these for his outside work in the wintertime…

  • Forget it Mikey I just found it. Can't wait to get started. Thank you for your video, we once met in Ottawa last year, my daughter was with me at the time we met, she passed away Sept 6, 2018…this will help keep me busy because my grief is very hard to go through…


  • where is the pattern you are following please? . I can only find a pattern that start at top ribbing on the website?

  • This picture was taken 10 year's ajo

  • Instead of 16 stitches at the toe, I have 19. No idea what I did wrong… RIP

  • do you have a pattern not using a size, like tube socks? Kids feet grow like weeds! (and I might mess up)

  • Excellent

  • What size foot would the "mens sizes" sock fit? I don't want to go through the whole pattern to find out they're too small. Thanks!

  • Just an observation because I found your video very helpful to get started, but while you were fiddling with stitch markers, I was halfway up the instep. They're totally unnecessary. If you can't spot a 3-sc cluster in your previous row and put another 3-sc cluster into the middle of it, then you are not an "experienced crocheter" as you put it. Also, the joining ridge created up the sole is avoidable (and confusing to beginners) if you just crochet smoothly in the round. Not only will it be easier to keep track of your stitches, it won't have that annoying ridge up the bottom – yes! I can feel those ridges! So since you stated that if we didn't like stitch markers then leave, I left. I'll figure out the heel from a video in which the teacher is a little less patronizing.

  • HI there, can you please give me details on how to get this sock pattern please, many thanks Barry

  • I don't find any of these crochet crowd videos for beginners.

  • Thank you so much! You did take away my fear and confusion! ?

  • mikey ur a perfectionist love it i feel schooled heeee

  • The men’s sock is huge.
    Great tutorial and not for beginners, though it’s my first try at socks. When halfway through the instep I scrapped it. Making a men’s sock for my husband but the toe portion is too huge. It’s more like a slipper, even with given gauge, hook etc. Am going to try women’s size ? I want the socks loose but to still fit like a sock. Great tutorial Mikey.

  • Is there a toe up crochet stick without circle?

  • I've knit dozens of pairs of socks, but arthritis in my hands makes it very hard to manage the needles now. I have put off trying to crochet socks, though enjoy crocheting everything else (easier on the hands). But I tried this tutorial and pattern, and even though my gauge checked out correct before I started, the sock came out huge. Even counting gauge in the finished sock, the count appeared correct, but I wound up with a sock for a one-footed Sasquatch. LOL Maybe I'll see if I can manage my old circular knitting needles again. My kids want socks for Xmas.

  • Unable to even go on yarn inspirations. Website is corrupt

  • I know this is an older video but does anyone have the written pattern please? It no longer found on the site. At least I get a 404 error when I click the link. Thank you

  • When you're counting the first 12 and then 16 stitches at the beginning do you also count the sl st? I keep ending up with 13 (sl st included). Thank you.

  • The socks..

  • Sorry but i found this frustrating. I thought the tutorial seemed very clear but the written pattern is slightly different to what he says at one point and thats off-putting. I left my socks for a week and then tried to pick it up again and ive tried for an hour now to get back into it but i just cant find where i was. I also found that the socks turned out way larger so i undid it last week and tried a size smaller but for a woman with size 8 feet the ladies size 5/6 was still turning out far too loose. maybe finer yarn would work better but i did use 4 ply sock wool.

  • Im a seasoned at crocheting but this looks very difficult.

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