Bespoke Shoe Making Process: Measurements | Dominic Casey | Hanger Project


HI, I’m Kirby Allison. We’re really
excited to be here outside of London in Eastbourne on the southern coast of the
United Kingdom here at the Lastmaker House with Dominic Casey; renowned lastmaker and bonafide bespoke shoe maker extraordinaire to learn more about the
bespoke process. First, he’s gonna be taking my measurements.
You know trained properly as a lastmaker he is going to take my
measurements and then today we’re gonna see him begin to carve my last out of
a solid block of wood. So, it’s gonna be really exciting. I’m thrilled to be here,
Dominic. Thank you so much for having me. … Welcome! Thank you for coming… Exciting to be down here… It’s nice to get you out of London… It is. It’s nice to be in the
proper, you know in the seaside. Yeah. Yeah, so talk to me a little bit about
kind of what we’re gonna do here. So, the first thing that any bespoke
shoemaker has to do when he starts off making a pair of shoes is actually
obviously measure the client’s feet. So the first thing that anyone really ought
to be doing is actually taking a look at the shoes that you’ve come in wearing
really and we need to take them off you and the first thing I always like to do
is look through them and begin to understand how you’re carrying your
weight. What’s happening with the inside of the shoe that you’re wearing at the
moment, because your weight will beginning to mold an impression into the
leather insole there. So the shoes that you’re actually wearing is going to be
telling me a lot about the shoes that we’re going to be going and how I’m
actually going to be making the last for you. So the first thing is to get these
off you and see where we need to go from here. So obviously left and right. Just
checking, was that the berluti knot that we’re undoing at the moment? It is! It’s a
good eye. Yeah. So how do you know about the berluti knot before? Well actually,
funny you should mention it. I learned about it on YouTube watching one of your
videos so I’m now pleased to say that I can recognize a berluti knot. Your shoes aren’t coming untied anymore. My shoes are not coming untied. Exactly. So this is a pair
of bespoke Cleverley’s. Yes. I don’t remember which, I think maybe my third
shoe. Right. Yeah they fit quite well. So the first thing that I always
like to look at is actually if you actually look down through the shoe, I
can actually begin to see the indentations and the molding and the
marks where your foot is actually leaving some impression on the leather
insole there. So the colors and the depth of the color is actually telling me
where you’re carrying your weight. Kind of like an imprint. It’s exactly like
an imprint. It is in fact the imprints of your foot. So it’s showing
me where all of the pressure points are coming. So I know that I can begin to
actually lift your foot up and I can actually begin to feel where the bones.
There’s a very strong mark where this bone is dropping down. There’s a strong
mark where that kind of toe bone is actually hitting on your foot as well
and on the outside of this small toe. So even though we actually haven’t started
measuring your foot yet, it’s beginning to tell me information that I need to
actually understand about making a last. And that’s quite different from customer to
customer. Yes. Exactly. So some customers you’ll see a really strongly defined
impression in the base of their current shoe and you actually put your hand
in it and then what i beginning to do is if you run your hand down there you can
actually feel the way that your foot has actually molded into the leather and the
cork internally on the shoe and that’s telling me about the shape of the bottom
of your foot. So already you know we haven’t actually done anything yet, but I’m
actually beginning to understand where this joint, this bone here is beginning
to land, where that one’s beginning to land and how all of this is actually
beginning to work even though we actually haven’t. And then usually the
last thing I’ll do is I’ll just turn it over and just begin to check out to see
what the wear pattern is looking like on the base of the shoe. So I’d like
to see where the big toe is actually landing on your foot. Where the big
joints and the little joints are landing. And then I’d usually just take a look at it, just to see what the balance is looking and how you’re kind of wearing
it. Whether you’re kind of kicking out the outside of the toe on that side more
than the inside of the toe there. Which probably tells me the foots rolling
slightly in that direction as it comes down. So any type of pronation or? Any
pronation. So it’s you know this is kind of full of
information that any kind of lastmaker would really need to know before they
get going and really. Those types of, that type of information would actually inform the
way you’re making the last. This is not so much the shape of your foot, but it’s
actually telling me how your foots working already. So that’s the the one
thing that we really need to gets grits with. So we’re going to measure your
feet now. Essentially, really traditional old school. The way that feet have been
measured and looked that for kind of hundreds of years really. But as soon as
I actually start measuring your feet, what I’m actually thinking about is how
I’m going to be carving a block for you. So not only am I going to be measuring
your feet, I’m gonna start thinking about the shapes that your and the
curvatures that your feet are beginning to throw out. So I’m going to really
start thinking about the curvature on the back of your heel here. I’m going to
start thinking about the thinness of the ankle coming through on the inside and
the outside. I’m gonna start looking at your instep here. I’m going to start
feeling for the bones. Because what I’m gonna try and do is tie up the
architecture and the bone structure of your foot with the measurements. So what
I need to do is is understand how this is built and then I can actually begin
to copy it in terms of a last. So there’s obvious things that I need to know like
are there any turned up toes? What’s that little toe doing there? You know I’m
feeling that. There’s a little bit of hard skin on the bottom of there. Sorry
about that. So I’m just making a note of the fact that there’s weight coming down
on the outside of that toe. I’m looking for any kind of hammer toes. Anything
that’s turning up. What about with shapes also because certainly certain
feet can, you know are appropriate for certain you know silhouettes of shoes.
Yeah. So that’s something you’re thinking about here also? Exactly. I
can look at this shape straight away and instantly you know I can see that
there’s a very different shape without actually even measuring or looking at. I
can just look at the shape of these toes and you can see that there’s a
very different shape and profile between your right over here and your left
over there. Now my job, I can instantly see without even measuring anything that
the left is a very different shape from the right. So my job as a lastmaker is
to actually make you a pair of shoes and a pair of lasts. So one of the things
that we all have to do as lastmakers and shoemakers is interpret what we’ve
actually got on the foot. Translate it into a pair of shoes that looks like a
pair of shoes. Even though you can see that shapes are completely different at
the frontier. There’s a, there’s great news for you,
Kirby. You have and not many people who have told you this. You’ve got a lovely
pair of feet. Okay. Thank you. So you’ve got there… so there’s hope for you. So what
it, just with the shape of this foot. It allows you to make many different types
of toe shapes. So just the general shaping of it. There’s not, there’s
nothing too dramatic going on which is going to scare anybody really. Okay. Great.
So let’s start getting some measurements on there. The first thing that we really
need to make sure is whenever you’ve got somebody sitting down. Whenever I want to
actually start making a last for you and start making shoes for people is that we
need to check your socks. Okay. So remarkably it makes a lot of
difference. The weight and the thickness of the socks that you’re wearing. You know
sometimes we have people turn up in sports socks and stuff like that and
they want a pair of dress shoes made and they’ve come in with the trainers from
their gym. So you know as long as this is the kind of standard weight sock that
you’re going to be wearing. Absolutely. We’re kind of in good
shape. And the other thing about wearing socks is sometimes when you get people
with a self measurement forms, they tend to make if you draw a foot and it’s not
got a sock on it, it tends to splay out. So the toes tend to splay out and one
thing that a sock actually begins to do is actually hold your foot in some shape
as well. Okay. So that’s it’s important for us because that’s actually beginning
to give us and define us some shaping there. So the first thing that we need to
do is actually make sure your leg’s sitting straight. We can’t afford it to
be rolling out because that’s going to change the profile and we can’t really
afford it to be knocking in. So we have to get the leg
making sure that you’re sitting comfortably and the foot sitting here.
Now, this is traditionally the way that we’ve always taken shoe drawings is with
clients sitting down. There is I think there’s probably as many different ways
of actually taking shoe drawings and foot drawings as there are shoe makers.
Everybody seems to have some different system and I think the one thing that we
say to the students when they’re on the courses here and they’re drawing around
the foot, is you have to be systematic and methodical. So as long as you always
approach everything in the same standardized way, then you’re going to be
in good shape with making a reasonable shape last. Every lastmaker maybe different. Every lastmaker has a different way, but they need to be consistent They need to be
be methodical. So, the first drawing is quite
simply an outline plan of the foot. The second thing that I’m really interested
in is the actual shape of your arch and where the actual arch runs through
here. So I need to actually understand what kind of angle that’s lying out
there really. So the pencil goes in 45 degrees and we draw an arch line and
that comes down to your large joint bone here.
Speaking of metatarsal bone and that’s really going to give me some really
strong indication of how I’m going to actually cut the last and when we
actually start looking at the last we’ll be drawing that line back into the last
so that one will go back in here and the final thing that I probably really want
to understand from here is just how deep we want to make the last. I’d like
to understand somehow where your foot is actually beginning to land on the
drawing. So I’m just gonna make a final mark right underneath your foot there in
the middle and that’s just going to give me a sense of where this outside
actually hits the ground. So again I actually haven’t got an incompression
of your foot but I’ve got a very strong impression of your foot running through
from the base of your sole and if you actually look through there you can
actually see the dark mark running on the outside where I can see all of
your weight coming down on the outside of your foot. So I’ve already got quite a
good impression of what’s actually happening on the base of your foot there
already. Um, some people take length measurements as well. Some people
calculate it with the tape measure afterwards, but I always like to have
some just sense of how long the foots going to be. So it’s just the question of
the size that goes in there. I’m just going to make a mark there. Six and three
quarters. And just record the overall length of the foot. Okay. So simple
drawings really. A kind of simple overall plan of the outside of the foot so it’s
just showing me the outside plan lines. The inside of the arch and the depth of
the arch as well. So do you do anything full load-bearing, where I’m like standing
up or? No, but what I will do is we’re going to measure your feet and then what
we’ll do is we’ll make some adjustments to the measurements when I actually
start to make the last. Okay. So we many people would actually then get you to
stand on your weight and then measure your feet with the weight on it and look at
the differences and some people would be comfortable working that way um but
usually what we’ll do is we’ll just make what I would do is just make some
adjustments to the last and then we’ll see where we go at the fitting whether
we need to actually move from there. And again, just as I’m drawing around it, I’m
beginning to just have a think about what the actual physical structure, the
bone structure of your foot actually is. You know I need to really, making a last
I need to actually understand the curvature and the shape of this heel
here and I’m just going to actually measure the the back of this heel just
so I get some idea about how much curvature here and how much I need to
bring the last in to give you a kick around the back of the heel. So usually
I’m just floating my hand around here looking for the instep bone. I’m looking
for whether any of the joints are prominent. How the toes are actually
feeling. What’s happening with that big nail at the front,
so we don’t want that kicking up into the top of the shoe. So and again once
again it’s just a very simple outline plain drawing of the foot. Pencil,
straight up all the way around. Probably the way shoe makers have taken drawings
of feet for hundreds of years really. No different whatsoever. That gives me the general outline plan
when we actually go and look at starting to make a last for you, that’s going to
be key for us. And do you write any of those mea.. those observations down or is it
something you do afterwards? I will be doing that afterwards. When I actually come
to start to make some notes and put some measurements on here, that’s when I’ll
actually start to think. Well what I’m actually going to do is I’m going to tie
up the measurements to the actual structure of the foot so I’m going to be
looking at the bones and we’re actually going to be putting the tape measure
around in very certain specific areas so that when I actually come to look at the
measurements I know that actually all of them are going to be relating to
physical parts of your foot so we might as well just go over those so what I’m
going to be interested in is that the widest part of your foot here. The two
bones here. I’m going to be particularly interested in the gap between your small
toe, the metatarsal here, and actual beginning or front of the small toe.
I’m going to be particularly interested in your cuneiform bone, which is just
sitting off here. Bearing in mind that the front, the cuneiform it actually runs
off at an angle towards the big toe joint. It doesn’t actually come down
straight. If you look at a lot of modern lasts, it actually come straight down
the middle of the foot the cone. But actually on a bespoke last and one of
the things that gives the bespoke last a really interesting shape, is that this
angle runs off in this direction down towards this bone here. So I need to know
where that cuneiform bone is because that’s going to give me the middle of
the arch line. I really need to know where this point is where your leg and
your foot meets the actual break point between the two. So that’s going to give
me the top of the shoe just underneath there so
when I take this measurement I’m actually going to be thinking about
actually this is the point here where the laces are going to be meeting, just
here and I’m going to be really interested in the length of this heel
line running across here as well so that I can actually understand how to
triangulate the circumference measurements with some of the length
measurements. So actually I’m going to be getting all of the measurements from the
actual structure of your foot and that’s going to be tying up again on to the
actual drawing here and with those hopefully we’ll be able to get a decent
last made for you. So the one thing that I need to understand here is the shape
of your arch, because I actually want to be able to cut the shoes and cut the
last in so that sits in nicely through the arch here. So I just need pencil at
45 degrees, classically and I just need the shape of that curve there just so
that I know how that arch runs through here and then the pencil needs to go
right under. I just want to get some idea of exactly where your foot actually hits
the floor and again before on this one you can really see in this one there’s a
strong patina. There’s a strong change in color between the light parts of the
insole where there’s no weight bearing and the dark part of the insole where
it’s all the weight is borne on the outside. So that shoe is telling me where
you’re actually carrying the weight of your foot. So the last thing I want
to do is and when I’m down here, I’m gonna mark two things. I’m just gonna
mark the widest part of your foot here. The biggest, all joints there. And the one
measurement that I probably need to do and just take a look at to give me some
idea is one of the curves that I need to understand is how this back curve works.
So I’m just gonna simply, I’m thinking in terms of a back height of a shoe, so if
I’m going to make a shoe and cut a shoe where the back of this is going to come
to. And I need to understand if a stand a pencil up straight there, you
can see that it creates a bit of a gap there and I just want to get a
measurement there so that I can understand how much this cuts in and
it’s usually five, six, seven, mills not a huge amount. Six
millimeters. So that’s just gonna, when we actually come to look at the last, that’s
going to give me some idea about how I need to actually curve this back to get
a nice fit round the back of the heel. And in terms of width,
I’ll just have a feel around here. And you’ve got very slim heels at the back
of your foot here, so I might just make a note of that on the drawing so it’ll
give me a good idea. I want to look to see if you’ve got any heel spurs. That
touch of a heel spur just on the outside here, but nothing too dramatic. Very slim
heel. So I know that when I actually come to make the last, I’ve got to be really
clipping the last through the sides to give you a good shape of the back. And
that’s essentially traditionally the way the one thing that I do want to do is
I’m just going to check this because I measured the other side. I just want to
see what kind of length we’ve got running here as well. So only a slight difference between the two.
Quarter of a size in terms of the actual length between the left and the right. So
nothing drastically dramatic there. Okay so one of the things that while you’re
just sitting down, Kirby, I just want to actually feel the base of your foot
really. Because, I’m just I mean I’ve got the foot impression from the shoes. I
mean I’ve got a basic drawing. I just want to feel underneath. Just see if
there’s any surprises. Anything that I really need to know about. And usually
here you’d begin to feel, perhaps some people have the metatarsals have
actually dropped down through the flesh so you can actually begin to feel the
bones sticking out at the base. You know you’ve got a slightly prominent ball
joint just here, but it’s not going to be anything that’s really going to affect
the shape of the last dramatically. So or some people have very strong prominent
cuneiform bones just here, which causes real physical discomfort when they’ve
got a lace-up shoe and it starts catching on that bone. So really it’s
just the question of well I’m just down here before I start putting any
measurements on just really looking at the foot feeling the
foot and just feeling if there’s anything that I really need to have any
issue with. But the great news is you’re in good shape at the moment. Maybe twenty
years time. And this is a point that is often quite painful for me. Yes. I mean
that’s you’ve got a slightly prominent cuneiform just there. I mean I mean it’s
a standard structure in a foot so many people have that and it’s just something
that this one on this side is not so prominent but it’s just something that
we need to be aware of especially when you’re wearing a kind of an oxford
lace-up shoe like that because obviously the closing system is catching
right the way across there. So that’s something that we just need to be aware
of. Right, so the first measurement is I’m always as I saying to you, I’m looking at
relating the measurements down to the actual bone structure of your foot. So
the first one is that I’ll need to come from across the large joint here. Okay.
And I’m going to come across between your little toe, the back of the toe, and
the middle of the toe. So I’m really coming into this gap in between the two
and again I’m just going to take a circumference measurement across there and again these are the kind of
measurements that in many ways most shoemakers will take. I’m going to take a
diagonal measurement across across the widest part of your foot here from the
bone there to the bone there. Again, tying it up into the way that I’ve actually
drawn the plan of your foot. Just interestingly, is that does that feel too
tight for you Kirby? If I was to have slacken off the tape measurer to that is probably
better isn’t it? That’s better, yeah. That’s better, yeah. Some people will take.
I’m just gonna put the tape around there. That’s a behind the joint measurement
and remember on or I can’t think and knowing three quarters. That’s the measurement that really gives
a bespoke shoe that feeling of when you actually put the shoehorn along you
think my goodness this is quite tight. I’ve I really actually got a push because
obviously this measurement, the behind measurement here running across here is
obviously a lot smaller. I mean it’s substantially half an inch
smaller than the widest part of your foot. So to get a nice shape into your
last, I want to actually cut this curvature and actually bring the last in
here. So I’m going to give you that real kind of pull-on feel. So that’s the
measurement that gives me some idea how. That’s the noise of a bespoke shoe
coming in that measurement through there as well. With a lot of ready-to-wear
shoes, when they make last, ready-to-wear last, they keep this measurement much
fuller. So it makes it a lot easier to actually put the shoe on and you don’t
get that same kind of pull. You don’t actually get the overall of actually
putting on a bespoke shoe. So I’m looking for the cuneiform bone now. So the tape
measure is going to come up through the middle of the arch over to the cuneiform
and it’s a circumference measurement running round there that. And I’m wary of
the cuneiform, so I’m gonna as we discussed before, this is quite prominent on your
foot so I just need to make a note that one of the things that we need to do
here and we’ll start looking for that bone when we start carving the last, this
is a point I’m going to be looking out for as discussed earlier. So the next
point I really want is again the structure of your foot this point is
where the top of the shoe is going to come to, where the laces is going to come
to. So I’m interested in when the where the break is between the leg and the
foot here. Again, up through the arch over to where the break comes to. We’ve got a
nice old-fashioned imperial measurement. And then the final measurement across
the heel, from the heel up to the the same area that we were looking at before
where that measurement came to. So we are going to come across there.
Thirteen and a half. Most shoemakers in any number of
variations will essentially do those principal measurements. That’s the one.
The only thing that we would really discuss maybe do differently is some
people will measure with your weight standing up or your weight on the foot
so the actual foot begins to splay out. But as we actually look at your when we
actually start to make that last, what we’ll do is we’ll put some adjustments
on to the measurements so that we’ll make some accommodation for the movement
of your foot and we’ll discuss that at a later date while we actually do that.
Right. Okay, so. Same thing for the left? Same thing on the left. Okay, if you pop your foot up there. Are you sitting nice and comfortably? So
again thinking about the structure of your foot. Feeling your foot. Thinking
about the bones inside your foot. So the first area that I’m looking at is straight
across from the joint, the large joint here to the dip between the fifth
metatarsal here and the beginning of your pinky. So I’m looking at coming into
this gap here with the tape measurer. So just roll your foot back Kirby and then
so it’s going to come over there over the large ball joint. I’m just going to
make it a little bit easy. Okay, again thinking about the structure
inside your foot I’m looking for this bone here.
Prominent bone there. The fifth metatarsal bone and your big toe joint.
And again, take measure underneath your foot over the top. Okay. Just the behind measurements. Some people
don’t take this measurement, I always like to have it. This is the one that
just allows me to cut the last in behind your foot. At this
point these are just all standard measurements that you would use. Yes. For
any last. Yes. There’s nothing kind of particular about my foot that you
know is sticking out or… No exactly. No. I mean you’ve got you’ve got a very kind
of well for want of a better word, normal looking foot really. So yeah which is a
reason why you have kind of lovely looking shoes made for you because your
foot shape really encourages my shoes. And then the final measurement. You see
me glancing all the time at your other measurements because I’m just checking
to make sure that they’re all actually in relation. I can see that you’ve got
very much a pair of feet apart from just this shape at the front here, which is
slightly different. But I was just actually always checking back looking at
the measurements in relation to one another just to make sure that they’re
in line with each other. And are you carving each last individually? Yes. So
each last will be carved completely individually. So yeah we’ll go a bit
there be different and the same. The great art is to actually make them look
the same even though the measurements and the feet are completely different. So
but with yours, they’re going to be so subtly different that we don’t really
need to worry about it too much. But just want to just check that measurement, Kirby.
Yeah, that’s right. Can I just check that one? Okay.
We’re done. What are you seeing there? No, I just wanted to make sure that there’s a
difference between the width across here and the width across there. This one is
wider. This foot is just wider in this area just here. Yeah. So I’m just just
checking out ..half an inch is… Yes, I was just beginning to check out
just to make sure that these were correct. Just wanted to really make
sure that that’s, we’re in the right place there because that was what. Which
could make sense because I’d normally whenever I stand I’m putting the weight
on this foot. Right. You usually find that if someone… Are you right footed? If you
were playing soccer, as you Americans say, would you be right footed?
Absolutely. Yeah. Just want to really check this, that’s
the one thing that… I think that certainly, it’s certainly
fuller than the other side. It’s not that it’s not it’s more quarter of an inch.
I’m just gonna take that down to 1/16. But there’s a definite difference between
the two. So that’s the one thing that is always checking the measurements. I was
actually looking back at the others and just. You can actually begin to see that
now, but this foot is actually wider just through there than it is through there.
And I just need to check one of the things that I want to do is just have a
look at this piece of flesh on the outside here just to see how much. One of
the things you don’t probably want to do. This is a part of the foot which you can
afford as a lastmaker and a shoe maker you can afford to move this. This
is a very soft fleshy part of the foot. So we might be. We’re going to be tucking
your last in just in that area there. It’s not going to have any impact on the
way that the foot, the shoe is actually going to hold your foot, but it’s gonna
make it nice and snug through there. So that’s the last bit that I just wanted
to check to see how much we could move that. You just have a bit of a feel around the
back of the heel just to make sure everything’s okay. So then you’ll take this? And we’re done.
I guess next we’ll see you set up the last. Yeah. well and we’ll head downstairs into the
workshop and we’ll start to sort of lock out and get something organized. That’s exciting. I’ve never seen a last be made so. Great. This
could be a treat. Super! Yes. Thank you. Look forward to it. Pleasure. Great.

100 Comments

  • I had no idea Mark Twain had a British accent. 🙂

  • Kirby, I've been meaning to ask but had forgotten until this measurement video, do you know if bespoke shoes can work well with flat feet and overpronation? I imagine that shoes can be made for just about any type of feet, but you mentioned certain types of feet working better with certain silhouettes. So my question really is, what types of silhouettes in bespoke shoes would be better for flat feet?

  • I know absolutely nothing about how to make a shoe so this question will be peppered with ignorance. Isn't this just an extremely difficult way of making a cast of someones foot? What is achieved by this method that couldn't just as easily be achieved by making a mold or cast of a foot? Just curious to know.

  • Dominic made a pair of captoe oxfords for me. Excellent pair of shoes!

  • Great video Kirby and great information. Dominic seems very engaging and interesting. i would love to have a course of bespoke shoe making in UK. do you recommend any? lastmaker seems has only last making course.

  • What's funny about your bespoke series is that it almost appears as though you are making these videos as a way to justify to your significant other why you're spending so much money on bespoke 😉 but great series regardless 🙂

  • @7:33 – "There is nothing too dramatic going on that is going to scare anybody."

    That is very funny.

  • All, you might like this snippet as it related to dressing well as a man:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtFxX_uaJ6s

  • Is there a second video showing the actual carving and the shoes? Curious to see the final products

  • this has ASMR written all over it!

  • Super interesting video Kirby, interesting that I have very similar sized feet to you, along with slim ankle and also the prominent cuneiform, which in oxfords causes me discomfort. Have never considered bespoke, because in general G&G TG73 (along with Alfred sergeants 724) fit me fairly superbly out of the box, but I find many shoes simply don't have a narrow enough ankle, or a comfortable instep. I'd be interested to know how you've got on with off the shelf G&G lasts compared to your bespoke shoes.

  • Will there be a follow up video? Really interested to see the rest of the process!!

  • Hello. Have you ever owned a pair of Loake shoes.

  • 22:21 Lol

  • Can a shoe last be used to every other shoe you make? I mean, it's bespoke to you feet, so it stands to reason that it can be used to make all your other shoes.

  • wait.. so does he have 6 toes on one foot??

  • Quintessential English craftsman!

  • Wonderful video and experience Kirby. Are all of your shoes bespoke?

  • I spy a left-hander! []

  • Inverse Al Bundy

  • i think the guy has a foot fetish

  • he import from China

  • I am starting to make my own minimalist shoes and came to this video to learn how to measure my feet properly. The pressures and forces exerted by our shoes upon our feet shape them over time. Forces exerted by our muscles upon our bones (posture) can also shape our bones over time (you can look up orthotropics or look at an older person whose spine is excessively bent forward). So, looking at the wear patterns on our shoes is sort of a moot point. Only feet that never wear shoes can be described as natural. If you study up on it and study anatomy, you will see. Our shoes are designed to hold our feet in an unnatural position – toe spring holding our toes up in extension, a narrow toe box cramming our toes together, and a slope instead of zero drop from heel to ball of foot. Over time, the muscles in our feet lose their range of motion (try to spread your toes versus your fingers) and the bones become misshapen (look at Shaq's foot). Search for a picture of a foot that has never worn a shoe to compare. You will see how healthy it is. Almost all foot problems come from shoes.

  • SUch a cool dude.

  • How can you measure the feet , and the client stand down…. you must take the measurement s with him standing up…
    If you do the right proper way , you will need only one pair for test…
    Everything else it s bullshit and marketing , how to obtain more money on talking and story !!!

  • This guy really likes old school, even has an iPod in the back!

  • That's a really old iPod.

  • Homeboy is a craftsman in every sense of the word. Even refers to his patrons as clients.

  • He talks to damn much 😬

  • I didn’t notice any hand sanitizer in his workshop.

  • The outro music is intense

  • His hair looks fucked up.

  • Bespoke shoe making is where the shoemaker creates your shoe by shaping a new block of wood to your measurement not using a already made shoe block and adding cork and whatnot to areas of the already made shoe tree

  • Imagine this guy custom making condoms;)

  • last make wear custom made Thom Mcanns from Kmarts

  • Navy Suit for War

  • Hmm. If I was the editor of this video, I would be a bit pissed. That look he gives at 18 seconds sort of says it all. More than that, Kirby really gives himself away before that in the way he seems to think of himself as a patrician with his hire. All the same, I was happy for the honesty.

  • One day, a laser could scan the foot and a 3D printer could produce the last. It could be customised by the shoe-maker. M.

  • I use Bicks #4 doesn’t darken but u need to apply more often. I also like Venetian shoe cream and sapphir.

  • Not sure how I got here…but I am always interested in old ways of doing things. GREAt video and thegentleman was wonderful and expalined everything in great detail.

  • 16:13
    Shape of your ….

  • Foot fetishists abound

  • On that note, is anybody else super conscious of their foot shape now?

  • Shoe Mark Twain

  • I wouldnt be surprised if he said "I also need to smell the foot in order to understand the heat levels that come from the soles. I smell each foot individually because it helps me understand if there are different heat levels eminating from the foot. This information will help me choose the appropriate type of leather to match the smell. I also need to taste the foot because [fill in the blank fake measurement bs]"

  • That guy should put some pad things under his knees to save them

  • This can be much easier if you left all the traditional nonsense out and brought this to 2019.
    1: take mold of foot
    2: take 3D scan (dot mesh, etc)
    3: upsize by 10% or whatever to make it comfortable
    4: 3D print that
    5: you have a 3D printed last slightly larger than the foot to ensure comfort while also having the exact foot shape
    6: profit

  • Anyone else come here from Leather Shoe Daddies?

  • Proper side of the pond???

  • Jippeto and the greasy shoe salesman 😂

  • This job stinks

  • Oh my – informative and interesting. "I have your shoes now – I must remove those fancy socks as well, sir. I assure you, it is necessary…"

  • Foot Doctor needs a trim and shave…..zzzzzzzzzz

  • Im just guessing this guy has a foot fetish

  • I like the part where Dominic begins to prepare to consider how to understand the structure of the foot as he begins thinking about when he's going to actually take the measurements, but not before he has thoroughly considered and begun to understand how Kirby's foot works.

  • Nearly headless Nick seems to be doing really well for himself after that whole Voldemort thing.

  • This guy is an Einstein when it comes to shoe measurements! He said “triangulate”

  • One presumes both enjoyed the touching of feet in this vid.

  • Love the thorough ness and passion of the maker

  • 11.30 For a moment there i thought he might chop off his feet

  • Nice school socks

  • that guy's suit is fresh as hell. anybody know what material it might be? looks nicer than wool

  • Bespoke shoes, one of the perks of being seriously wealthy.

  • Nice suit bra

  • When I measure feet, I like to detach from the matrix and get a read out on the computer and then go back into the matrix and create the shoe. My way is less convoluted and more believable than this guys. Its shoe making, its not working at the LHC.

  • How much he charge

  • #unintentionalasmr

  • What brand of boots does the maker have on

  • If you have to ask how much a pair costs, you can’t afford it.

  • Put ASMR in the Title bloody hell mate!!!

  • He looks like he's been drawn out of a book. One I'd want to read.

  • I watched the entire clip without even measuring.

  • His accent is a lot like Gary Oldman's

  • Bespoke shoes for war.

  • 13:50 lol

  • What s happens if your feet smell?? 😉

  • “Your great uncle do no let me change his socks either. I just like the feet….I do not know why…” ~ Mr. Deeds. ~

  • Not sure how i got here, but my recommendations are gonna be completely skewed.

  • This guy has a foot fetish

  • So this dude has a foot fetish

  • they really should vacuum the floor.

  • Establishing some shoes here

  • Like how he kept referring to the ‘customer’ by name

  • “Pencil at 45 degrees, classically”

  • ASMR please

  • Love Dominic‘s boots

  • don't care about shoe making. . . . .I only watched for the ASMR

  • So I’m guessing it might be slightly insulting to call Mr Casey a cobbler ! 😀 Incredible attention to detail, the ultimate luxury.

  • actually

  • With apologies to Oscar Wilde, I have never seen someone go to so much effort to get dressed with such little result.

  • Kirby has a great ASMR voice

  • Are lasts being made with 3D printer?

  • Chevrolet, zebra and honesty.

  • “And actually if I put your foot in my mouth..”

  • He did not say how long each pair takes to make, that would have been interesting.

  • Just came across your channel for some reason. Glad though. Very interesting video on the process of shoe making. Also notice you're left-handed.

  • Boy, this was a great asmr video!

  • Actually, the actual actuality of the actual actuality is actually actual.

  • Your suit is really nice man really nice choice 😎

  • What a fascinating man. He speaks with the deep knowledge of long experience, and without a trace of pretension.

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