$400 Shoes vs $1300 Shoes | A Black Cap Toe Oxford Comparison | Kirby Allison


What’s the difference between a 400 dollar pair of Allen Edmonds and a thirteen hundred dollar pair of Edward greens in today’s video. I’m going to show you just how different for black cap toe oxfords can be. I’m Kirby Allison and I love helping the well-dressed acquire and care for their wardrobes. Join me as we explore the world of quality craftsmanship and tradition. We’ve got four exceptional black capped two oxfords here with us today. We’ve got the three hundred ninety five dollar black cap to a Park Avenue from Allen Edmonds. The four hundred ninety five dollar black cap to Oxford from Carmina a twelve hundred dollar black cap to Oxford from Gazza unknown Girling. And finally a thirteen hundred dollar black cap toe Oxford from Edward Green. Now the question you might be asking is just how different can for black captive oxfords be. And in this video I’m going to go into the details that really separate these shoes from one another. Whenever it comes to dress shoes a black cap toe Oxford is as classic and as timeless as you can get. The reason a black cap to Oxford is probably the best selling dress you ever is because it’s a shoe that’s never gonna go out of style. This shoe looks as good today as it looked fifty sixty seventy five years ago and it will look just as good fifty sixty or seventy five years from today as it does now whenever it comes to dress shoes. It’s just hard to get a more beautiful more classic dress shoes than the black cap to Oxford. And it’s because of that reason you’ll find a black cap to Oxford as a part of every Shoemaker’s collection. We’ve got a huge range of shoes here. We’ve got the 400 dollar Allen Edmonds all the way up to a thirteen hundred dollar pair of Edward greens and I would tell you that both of these shoes represent a good value at their respective price points. That’s why each one of these shoes has made its way into our shoe review series because here at Kirby Allison we want to review shoes that we can recommend to you depending on your budget and how much money you have to spend on a pair of dress shoes. Each of these options is a great value for what they offer at that particular price point the three hundred ninety five dollar Park Avenue is probably one of the best selling dress shoes in America. Alan Edmunds is a quintessential American shoe brand and whenever people think of their first pair of nice dress shoes we hear more people speak of Alan Edmunds than any other brand. They’re easy to find available in a huge range of sizes and really represent made in America. Whenever people email us and ask us what type of shoes that they should invest in or what type of shoes warrant using good polish like the shoe polish we offer here at Kirby Allison I always say that you need to be an Alan Edmunds or better. And the reason is is that Alan Edmunds is still a finely made leather dress you know. Is it a pair of gassy Alan girl rings or Edward greens. And the answer is unequivocally no. But it’s still a respectable dress you for the money. There’s a few key details I’ll point out. First and foremost it’s Goodyear welded. That means that the outsell is attached to a well with stitching that allows these shoes to be easily repaired and resold. The reason that that’s important is that if you’re going to invest in a high quality pair of leather dress shoes you need to be able to resell them because the outsell will always wear out before the shoe wears out itself. So a good pair of dress shoes should easily be able to go through three four or five outsells before they reach the end of its lifetime. Alan Edmunds is a 100 percent Goodyear wilted shoe and they have something they’ve trademarked as the 360 degree Goodyear well where basically that welding goes all the way around not just the forward part of the shoe but passes the instep all the way around the heel and really 360 degrees around the shoe. The other thing that’s nice about a pair of Alan Edmunds is that they use a full grain open poor genuine calf skin it’s a high quality capsicum that’s going to produce a great shine and especially with a pair of Allen Edmonds I would recommend that you shine them out of the box because this leather with all honesty needs the Polish really to bring its shine up and look even now is it the highest quality leather No but it’s a good quality leather for what you get at three hundred ninety five dollars and most importantly you can rest assured that the leather is dyed properly and you don’t have to worry about the finished coming off like you do at some less expensive shoes. It’s a great shoe and it’s a shoe that unequivocally I can recommend here. Kirby Alison Hanger Project. Now if you have a little bit more money to spend for only a hundred extra bucks you really jump up a to a whole nother level in terms of quality Whenever you reach Carmina at four hundred ninety five dollars Carmina is an exceptional value. And if anyone can stretch a little bit above and Allen Edmonds I would absolutely recommend a pair of calmness because you begin to see a lot of the finer points of shoe making that you don’t with a pair of Allen Edmonds just looking at these two shoes together you can really see the difference just in terms of finishing and finesse. Let me point out some of the technical details of this Carmina that really set it apart. Now I’m going to compare it just to this Allen Edmonds since we’re working our way up in terms of the price of shoes. So for four hundred ninety five dollars one of the things that you get that immediately changes the look of the shoe is a higher stitch density on the Outsell. So with Carmina you’re probably getting somewhere between 10 and 12. Whereas with this pair of Allen Edmonds at best you’re getting four or five. Now what I mean by stitch density is what is the density of stitches that is used to stitch the outsold to the welt. Now this isn’t something that’s obvious. So if you’re wearing these. Allen Edmonds and someone’s looking down at your shoe. Nobody is probably gonna notice the stitch DENSITY OF YOUR outsell and if you have these shoes repaired or resold your cobbler should easily be able to restage the outsell at a higher stitch density than what comes from the factory. But there’s no question that the stitch density on the outside is one of those things that just creates a finesse to the finishing that you immediately see when you look at these communists. Now if you look a little bit more closely at the well you’ll notice another detail here that really elevates the level of finish and that is something called wealth fudging. Well fudging. Are these small indentations that you see pressed on top of the welt and at Shoemaker uses a wheel to press those in. Now traditionally the wealth fudging would be used to mark the points at which the outside would be stitched to the welt. And so that would control the stitch density. But here since this is a good year welded shoe its primer. It’s primarily decorative but there’s no question that this elevates the level of finesse. Next. If you look at the overall shape of the last. You have more shape of the shoe around the last. Now this small definition takes a little bit more time and a little bit more skill to produce but it allows you to produce just more shape into the shoe itself. That again creates a more elegant more beautiful shoe. Kamin it without question uses a higher quality calf scan for the upper. And another detail when you look at the bottoms not only are the bottoms finished but there’s another important detail that I think is really important whenever it comes to a high quality pair of leather dress shoes. And that’s something called an invisible channel stitch. Whenever you look at the outside of these calmness and you compare that to the alcohol of the Allen Edmonds you can see that the outsells stitching is hidden and that is called invisible channel stitching where basically this leather is sliced peeled back and then the outsell is stitched and then that leather flap is glued down. Now the result is invisible to most eyes because very rarely does someone else see the bottom of your shoe. But if you’re someone that really appreciates craftsmanship and love shoes just having that highly finished bottom with no visible channel stitching is just one of those nuanced elements of shoe making that really elevate the shoe itself. Now again with the pair of Allen Edmonds if you’re having them resold like two hour Kirby Allison certified shoe restoration program we can easily do it. An invisible channel stitching but from the factory you don’t receive that. Another detail that you’ll see on the current Mena is just a little bit of tacking at the toe and around the heel. And again it’s just a small nuanced detail that without question sets you apart. Also on the Kamin as you have a full leather heel stack whereas on the Allen Edmonds is particle leather. And then also the heel sits more cleanly and tighter on the shoe itself so there’s less of a gap right here. So it’s just a tighter cleaner and more elegant finish. The Goodyear welding goes past where the heel starts up a little bit but then it stops and it doesn’t go all the way around. Now whenever you compare that to the Allen Edmonds you absolutely see a difference just in the quality of the finish on the rear of the shoe. Now is this something that everyone notices. Probably not. But if you’re someone that loves shoes you probably will. And one last detail that you only begin to notice whenever you compare these shoes together is not only do you have a higher stitch density across the outsell but you also have a higher standard density across the upper where the patterns are joined together. And again it’s that precise single needle stitching here in two parallel rows here just in one single row as higher periphery nation rate just produces a cleaner sleeker look and there’s no question the higher in the shoe the higher the stitch density could be so moving up. We come to Gatineau and Girling there’s a huge jump in price between a pair of Kamin as Gazza unknown Girling and Edward Green’s. And at this point you really begin to hit the point of diminishing marginal return. There’s no question that more finishing and finesse goes in these shoes and I’m going to talk to you about that. But the price difference that you have to pay in order to receive that level of finishing is much more significant than what you get going from a pair of Allen Edmonds to Cardenas. Now. Kamin as are made off the Spanish island of my orca whereas Gatsby unknown girl rings and Edward Green’s are classic British shoes both made in North Hampton which is the birthplace of really the modern dress you now whenever you get to these Gatsby unknown yearlings you see everything that I’ve talked about with these two pairs really elevated to an even higher standard. You get a higher stitch density on the outs so you again have well fudging you get an even higher stitch density on the uppers. You get more definition to the last. You get a tighter fiddle back waste. You still have the invisible channel stitching. But now you have even more finishing to the outside itself. And as we turn the shoe around you really begin to see some of these finishing details at the heel the heel is smaller and sits tighter on the upper right. It has more shape to it got cyan on Girling puts a soft pitch into the heel. You have more shape this back heel and one of the other things you can’t see but you can feel is that there’s more structure and hard countering into the shoe itself and what the hard cantering is is a deep hard piece of leather that is placed in between the upper and the entire lining that produces a stiffer structure that is used to create support and control creasing. You see all that with this Gazza unknown Girling Oxford shoe. So like I explained earlier with the good your welding we have the Goodyear welding all the way around the forward part of the shoe but you’ll see that got C.A. and Girling is very precise and having it stop right here where the heel begins and then on the back quarters of the shoe you don’t see any of that Weld stitching and the heel sits very tightly or the heel blocks it’s very tightly on the heel itself. Now the heel is made from 100 percent leather. And all of the leather on the bottoms are oak bark tanned leather outsells in heels whereas on the Camino is it’s just regular Italian Tanned bottoms. Now you can’t get J are bottoms and they’re caught. And if you do there may Daub order program you can specify a jar when the bark bark and leather outsells also. But on the gassing on on Girling these come standard now Oak Park tanned leather outsells what does that mean. Well there’s different ways that leather could be tanned and we actually had the privilege of visiting J.R. Wyndham back in Germany which is a tannery that specializes in oak bark tanned leather out soles and basically oak bark tanning. You have the leather outsells sitting in pits for up to nine months and only tree barks are used to tan the leather. Now it takes a lot longer than what you get and say a fast tan to a drum with Italian leather but the result is a much more durable abrasion resistant and water resistant leather out so that is going to outperform and outlast a normal outsell by several factors. Now the result is you just have to restore your outsells less often and it’s more water resistant and that makes a big difference. And just how long your shoes are able to go in between wrestling’s. It also allows for a much cleaner finish on the bottom and as you can see with these Gazza on Girling as the finishing work on the bottom of these shoes is just as beautiful on the uppers and is really one of the things that set Gazza on Girling apart whenever they first came to the market was this bottom finishing. And of course this tight waist with the fiddle back now the fiddle back is a small kind of shape an indentation that you get on the waist of the shoe. Now if you look at these Kamin s you don’t have a fiddle you have something of that is just called a square waist. Right. So it still has a little bit of shape but it doesn’t come in as much here at the waist as the get gotten on on girls do. And it’s flat right across that it doesn’t have this fiddle built up right here. Now does that affect how the shoe wears. Absolutely not. But it’s just one of those finishing details that really separates a beautiful well-made pair of got down on girls really from other shoes out there that are generally available at lower price points and it’s just one of the details that really brings people to Gazza and on Girling now this shoe is absolutely beautiful. It’s made to the highest standards the upper is hand clicked. So that means that it’s being cut out by hand. They use the same grade calf skin for the uppers that they use in their bespoke shoes which is the highest grade. And because all the pattern pieces are hand clicked they can move those pattern pieces around the hide to ensure that they are using only the best parts with no blemishes. Now if you want to see everything about how a pair of got down and girls are made we were given exclusive access to their factory and we have an entire factory tour that we’ve filmed that goes through step by step how they make their Goodyear welded leather dress shoes. I could speak about all the details in this shoe for an entire hour but this is an overview so I’m going to move on to the next pair of shoes. Next we have the Edward Greens. This is their black cap toe Oxford Edward Green is without question probably one of the most iconic luxury English shoemakers and they’ve been around a lot longer than Gazza on Girling. And a pair of shoes from Edward Green is a pittance with luxury English made dress shoes. They’ve been around for a long time and they have really separated themselves with the highest Commitment to Excellence whenever it comes to making their shoes. And there’s no question that a pair of shoes from Andrew Green is an investment piece that will be sure to last decades if. Cared for properly. Now what you get with a pair of Edward greens is an incredibly well-made English dress you. That is good your wilted. It’s a factory made shoe just like the rest of these but you can be certain that they’re using the highest quality materials and really the best techniques to make their shoes. Edward Green and Gazza unknown Girling really are in the same class that upper echelon of factory made Goodyear welded leather dress shoes. A lot of the same details that I discussed in these gutsy girl girls you find in the evergreens also you have a high stitch density to the outsell its fudged. You have of course only the highest quality smooth calf skin being used. It has a beautiful shape to the shoe. Great last definition a high stitch density to the uppers a beautiful heel that sits tightly on the back of the shoe. The welding stops at the heel. You’ve got great definition you’ve got hard countering. Of course they use Oak Park tanned leather outsells in heels. Also you can see that the outside in the heel is finished and it has an invisible channel stitching. This is an absolutely beautiful shoe and just like got down on Girling they have several different at last that you can have this you made on with a wide variety of sizes and widths to ensure that whenever you invest in a pair of Edward Greens that they are gonna fit your foot is as close to perfectly as possible without going bespoke and for twelve hundred and eighty five dollars. Of course it is an expensive shoe but it is well worth the investment if you want something that is going to look beautiful for decades. One of the things that you’re paying for with that question whenever you invest in a pair of Edward greens is for the heritage that none of these other shoe makers have now got S.A. to a lesser extent because you know these are still incredibly well made. You know English Northampton shoes with a pair of lower priced dress shoes you just don’t get the provenance that you get with a pair of gassy unknown girl things and especially a pair of Edward greens. So as I mentioned earlier one of the things that you see in terms of differentiating one of these really high end pair of leather dress shoes from some of the more standard ones is the amount of last definition. Now the last definition is how much shape that is given to the shoe as it is lasted whereas the leather is pulled over the last when it’s being constructed and it’s a really really really important characteristic that just produces the sculpture that you would expect from a really finally made pair of leather dress shoes and one of the best ways to illustrate that is to just set the shoe down. And then to take a pencil and just drop it straight down on the arch right so you can see the amount of space you have right here between the pencil and the arch is quite significant so look how much shape is being built into this arch as it comes underneath the shoe so you compare that to this pair of Allen Edmonds. We drop this down and you see that there’s almost no shape here at all right. So look at that. Nothing. Can even fit my finger in there. You look at this. It’s huge. You know I can put two fingers in there and so that again is just a sculpture. You know we see it to a certain as you know on these Edward Greens. Now Edward Green has a slightly more square waist but we still have quite a bit of definition right there at the waist. And then to a lesser extent but certainly still there on these Kamin is also. So again it’s just those small details that kind of all combine together to create a beautifully sculpted pair of shoes that really provokes. Emotion. So the amount of last definition that you get and some of these higher end shoes are. And and it’s not just last definition but it’s just a really beautifully inspired last shape that then they’re able to produce last definition in as just one of the things that all combined together to create beautiful shoes that are striking elegant and that you enjoy wearing at the end of the day. Now I’ve spoken about the technical differences between these shoes and if you have any questions or anything to add by all means please ask them in the comments section below. I enjoy getting back to as many of those questions as possibly. And I really enjoy hearing your thoughts on these different shoes. But next I want to speak a little bit more personally about just my opinions in terms of the style differences of these shoes. Technically they’re different but in each brand’s approach towards shoe making. There are certainly differences in terms of style. And then there’s also just practical differences in terms of how the patterns are done. So we’re going to start here and work our way up and you know these are really my opinions. And so you know you may disagree and that’s totally fine and if you disagree let me know in the comment section. So Allen Edmonds there’s no question that these Park Avenues are great shoes. But what you’re really missing here is the finesse that you find in the rest of these. They’re great shoes and they’re a fantastic value. If all you have is three hundred ninety five dollars or if you want to shop one of their sales where these go on sale this is an excellent quality leather dress you have that if properly polished and care for it will last decades and look great. There’s no question that with a pair of Allen headbands you are looking better and wearing better footwear than ninety five percent of all the guys out there. And so if you’re a professional that wears a suit and you haven’t invested in at least a pair of Allen Edmonds or better I would encourage you today go out and buy a proper pair of shoes because it’s one of the first things people notice. Now whenever we talk about the pattern I find a certain degree of heaviness to this pair of shoes from Allen Edmonds the triple stitching across the facing the double stitching across the toe cap and the spacing just produces a heavier look. Now I enjoy some of this stitching as I’ll talk about whenever we get over to these other shoes because you want some visual separation between the pattern pieces because this isn’t a whole cut Oxford but I just find that the combination of number of rows of stitching in the stitch density just produce a heaviness to this shoe. Another thing is immediately whenever you look at the outsell the low stitch density of the outside stitching again just lacks the finesse that I really appreciate. And a leather dress shoe. Another thing is that if you look at the positioning of the cap there’s it’s pitched slightly forward especially whenever you compare it to these calmness. And so I’ve always thought that the Park Avenues were slightly out of balance because the cap was too far forward. Now there’s benefits to that because you don’t have to worry about
creasing the cap because it gives you more room in the vamp and you might need that room for the trademark six islets which you get on the Paramount and Edmunds. But to me you know this facing right here is too long and this is too narrow. So that’s my opinion on this issue. These comments are absolutely beautiful and I think they’re expertly made here you’ll see a double Rose stitching across the facing and across the cap single stitching here with the traditional arc and there’s really nothing I would say about this I really enjoy just the aesthetic of the pattern. This is a great shoe and you know it’s really nothing I would change. Now looking at the Gazza honor’s you’ll see that Graziano took a slightly different approach to the way that they constructed the wrapper where they used just a single rub stitching at a very high stitch density that did a lot of ways reflects the ethos of the brand. They’re sleek slightly fashion forward British aesthetic. And so I like that. But I think that it lacks a little bit of the visual separation that you get with the double roses stitching between the calmness and the Edward Green’s. Now when we look at the Edward Greens again you’ll see the same double stitching that you have in the calmness which again I think create nice visual separation. This is a slightly larger shoot than the other one so it’s a little bit hard to compare apples to apples but the pattern here just has an incredibly beautiful well-balanced. Aesthetic between the different pieces the pattern the cap the vamp and then the quarters. But another visual cue that you get on the Edward Green’s that really separate this from the rest of this shoe is this little pattern piece right here. It’s not a pattern piece it’s actually just stitching into this pattern element that’s called a swan’s neck. Now this was resurrected from shoes that Edward Green had made in the 1930s and it’s just a nice little subtle visual cue that separates the shoe it gives a little bit of slickness and elegance to an otherwise very conservative classic dress you need to be totally honest. I liked the swan’s neck so much that my bespoke cap to oxfords that Dominic Casey made for me incorporate the same element into them. Now the swan neck isn’t a unique or proprietary to Edward Green because there’s really nothing you can do in shoe making these days it hasn’t been done before but as far as these shoes that I have here today it is the only pair of that’s one mix and it is a detail that I like. So each of these four pairs of shoes I have today are really excellent examples of a black cap to Oxford. Each is at a different price point. We have a three hundred ninety five dollar pair of Park Avenues from Alan Edmunds. We’ve got a four hundred ninety five dollar pair of shoes from Carmina. We’ve got a twelve hundred dollar pair of shoes we’ve got to go on Girling and we have add thirteen hundred dollars or one thousand two hundred eighty five dollar pair of shoes from Edward Green. Now are these the same shoe. No. And that’s one of the things that I love about shoe making is that each of these each have their own uniqueness that are going to appeal and just connect with you differently. So someone might prefer the slightly fashion forward classic English aesthetic of a Gatsby on on Girling. They’ve got twelve hundred dollars to spend on a pair of shoes and they want the best and they love the fiddle back waste in the detail and you know maybe they really enjoy GoT Seattle’s made order program got Seattle and Girling is a fantastic shoe. Maybe you want a more classic English shoe that’s safe for the boardroom but you still want to walk into that boardroom knowing that you’re wearing one of the finest pair of shoes in the room. You can’t do anything better than a pair of Edward Green’s maybe you don’t have that much money to spend on a shoe or you’re a little bit more budget conscious but you still want really finally paid made pair of dress shoes that has a lot of the same elements that you see in these for less than half the price what Carmina is fantastic and they do an absolute great job making their shoes. Or maybe you’re someone that just needs a good high quality pair of leather dress shoes and don’t want to blow the bank really a pair of Allen Edmonds is a completely respectable fine shoe that I don’t want to disrespect my first high quality pair of leather dress shoes was in fact an Allen Edmonds and not just one pair. I had four pairs of Allen Edmonds in college. The other point I want to make about the Allen Edmonds is again what’s important about this issue is that they use a non corrected grain on a calf scan. It’s a full grain open paw leather that’s the small indentations you see in the leather. The reason that is important is because it means that the leather is open and is able to be fed with good quality Polish so a pair of Allen Edmonds polish with high quality polish like what we sell here at Kirby Allison is a totally different pair of shoes than the Allen Edmonds you get out of the box. These aren’t polished but if I were to polish these shoes which every new pair of shoes need to be polished the finish of these would elevate even farther. And then the other thing is that whenever you go to have these shoes resold if you know the way that the bottoms are finished is really important to you you know through the Kirby Allison certified shoe restoration program. You know for as little as you know two hundred twenty five dollars we can replace this otherwise generic leather out sole and heel with it. J.R. Wyndham Bok oak bark tanned leather out soul which is the same quality you see used in the Gatsby on on Girling and Edward Green’s if you want the inking in the invisible channel stitching on our sovereign great certified shoe restoration program we can take that jar in the back. Leather outsell and we really can make it look almost just like this pair of shoes from Edward Green on the bottom. So there’s no question that with proper reselling again we can rework this heel and we can change the leather out so and we can elevate this even further. But that may not be important to you. And that goes back to one of my fundamental philosophies which is to be really important not to get into a moral conversation about shoes or clothing or anything because there’s nothing good or bad or right or wrong about any of these shoes. Both are fantastically made and of a high quality for their respective price point and depending on who you are where you like to spend your money. How you’re gonna wear these shoes one might be right for you. Versus the other. I hope you’ve enjoyed this review of these four black cap toe oxfords. I really enjoyed seeing all four of these shows here together because it allows us to juxtapose a lot of the things that we’ve been discussing in our shoe review series. If you haven’t checked out our shoe review series we have an extensive series of videos that we’re filming reviewing shoes at various price point by various makers where we point out some of the differences that go into the construction in the make of the shoe. Do you have any questions about anything we discussed in this video. Please ask it in the comment section below. I enjoy getting back to as many of those comments and questions as possible and if you have any opinions about these shoes or if you have any other shoes that you think we should review by all means please offer them in the comment section. I love reading those comments. I’m Kirby Allison and I love to help the well-dressed inquire and care for their wardrobes while exploring the world of quality craftsmanship and tradition. Thanks for joining me.

100 Comments

  • Blahkaptoh

  • I find it interesting that all but the AEs are shined… maybe so that we could tell a difference? I agree that finer details are what make a difference, but most those things don't matter unless you are a collector. All of those soles will wear the same, and once you shine the shoes they all look very nice, and 99.9% of people will not be able to tell the $400 pair from the $1400 pair. Unless a brand gives you a better fit, or you are a collector, those AEs will work just as well until you get to bespoke level

  • I learnt a lot about dress shoes at 4am thanks Kirby

  • No wonder the really wealthy walk like they have a stick up their ass…. They are just being careful with their $1,500 shoes. Wow!!!

  • The difference is how many dicks it takes Kirby Allison to suck so he can afford a $1300 pair of shoes that no one cares about- 1000

  • This was a great review. I really enjoyed seeing where the high dollar shoes shine. Well done!

  • Kirby make sure and tell them if they Aren’t wearing designer shoes there Ugly White Trash! Remember Christ the son of God wore sandals

  • Miost interesting and informative video ! Thank you !
    After years of having been a loyal customer of Allen Edmonds..and after watching your video on the comparisons, I feel as though I've made a terrible mistake in having been a customer of AE. According to you , , they are the lowest on the totem pole. My mistake all these years.

  • This guy reallllly likes saying BLACK CAP TOE OXFORD.

  • Well done video.

  • Where can I buy your shoe polish?

  • will you review a Nike shoes ? How about Air Jordon 10

  • I d never pay so much for a shoe

  • What are those wooden objects in the shoes? I've been trying to find them but I don't know the name, it would be appreciated if anyone were to tell me 🙂

  • Even for the cheapest pair in this video, I can buy 10 cheaper pairs and throw them out once every a year or two

  • God I wish I could afford beeing interested in these kind of things :,(

  • No Lloyd ? No Loake..? These are British and far better shoes than what you show. Way better than your Edward Greens. Maybe that’s what you sell because of the margin ??

  • I think you forgot Berluti with their stunning high quality shoes !

  • Carmina uses jr soles Seen them in the factory in trier

  • This is great! Loved to learn about the pricing model.

  • i shot a few homeless south americans, skinned their eye lids and got $5000 pair of shoes. Thats how much sense this video makes

  • I can't even afford to watch this video.

  • Crockett & Jones.. thoughts??

  • They all look the same

  • Me before the video: they're all exactly the same

    Me afterwards: wow those Allan Edmonds look like trash…they're all so different, what idiot would think these are all the same shoes?

  • Dear Kirby ' I have been watching a variety of your videos for the past few months , and have enjoyed your presentations immanently most particularly your visit to Henry Pool and co in savile row ' I just love the tradition' and heritage' not too mention the quality' and if I had the means I would most definitely be on of their clients'. … it is an inspiration to behold I could see by your respectful demeanor that you' were also was a in awe , of a tailor that has been providing the very best of male attire since the 1740's . Now lets talk a little about your review of the black toe capped black oxfords …. I am overwhelmed by your love of good shoes , it easily matches or even surpasses my own. And the time and devotion that you dedicate to explaining the subtle nuances between a $US300 dollar shoe as compared to a $US 1200 dollar shoe was nothing short of inspirational, so thank you for your courtesy and professionalism.

    For the past umteen years I have been wearing pretty much exclusively shoes that have been made by two of what I have believe to be outstanding shoe makers … ie … R.M Williams of Percy street Adelaide Australia of which I own six pairs of their highest grade of hand made boots …ie… their Signature range '. also over those years I have been wearing various styles and lasts of shoes from Crockett & Jones of Northampton England who have been hand making shoe's since the 1870's of which I am fortunate to say I own about a dozen pairs of their shoes . But after seeing your review and the impassioned way you presented the outstanding manner that you advocated the excellence of just how well made Edward Green ' shoes are made to such an excellent standard then I am now convinced that the next pair of shoes I add to my collection should be a pair of Edward Green's.
    Living as I do in County N,S.W Australia as you can possibly imagine I am a tad reluctant to invest $1200+ in PAIR OF SHOES FROM THE OTHER SIDE OF THE WORLD WITHOUT first TRYING A pair on ON FIRST … the cost of postage alone runs into the $ ooo's of dollars if I have to return anything both ways that is not a right fitting for me. but as a result of your wonderful presentation , I am no convinced that I must have at least one pair of Edward Greens, I just need to make it happen somehow . One thing I would like to ask you; is about the legendary SPECTATOR shoe … I have been trying for years to buy a couple of pair' s but so far too no avail ' as they seam to me as rare as hens teeth …. Yes as you redoubtably know' they can be bespoke made , but sadly few of us can afford to pay thousands upon thousands of dollars for the privilege … of owning a couple of pairs of spectator shoes , apparently Your former President Harry S. Truman own over 108 pairs of shoes and the Spectator ' was his favorite ' he owned multiple pairs of that style of shoes and had them re-soled and healed numerous times . Apparently they' were redable available in retail shops back in his day, …. ie… 30's 40;s and 50's ? not so much ( at all ) nowadays ? …

    Anyhow thanks again for all the time and effort that you 'put your work I can see that you love what you do , And I for one truly appreciate all your hard work and endevour that you' put into your presentations' However I can see that you clearly enjoy what you do and so as once my father very wisely told me ; that if you can enjoy whatever it is that you do ' then you never need to go to work again

    Sincerely Yours in the appreciation of style and quality .

    Albert J. Atkins ( Sir )

  • Excellent information – You really are very good.
    Many thanks…….all the way from London !

  • Thanks Kirby, fantastic detailed description of each shoe, i have only recently started to buy and wear my Crockett and jones, which I love by the way but was wondering how i would compare them to the allens and carmina,s as i don't live near a capital city to see them for myself. I need to fly 2 hours by jet to get to Sydney Australia, just to see any nice shoes. I have not found Carmina's for sale yet there. Thanks jarmo.

  • I thought they would say something about paddling or being more comfortable. Nope!

  • I wonder which of the 4 will last 1000 miles test? But when you have lots of money who cares. Comfort is top priority and how your feet are after 10 hours walking in them…

  • I'm so regret spending $$ on Allen Edmonds, they are trash: bad craftsmanship, low quality leather (in quarter or rear end of shoe) and absolutely ugly last (for fat foot?)

  • Sorry, can't watch this with this switching of camera angles diagonally to the side. That's used for when you're talking to someone present, not when you're talking to us – we're straight ahead. Do you normally to look to the side of the person you're talking to? A pet hate.

  • This guy is living in another world ..planet zogg

  • It's a fantastic program and informative too. Thanks Kirby.

  • What last are the carminas?

  • Did not know that you could make 30 min video about 4 different shoos! Love it!

  • Of the 4 pairs my opinion is the Carmina look the best.

  • I'm actually curious between Carmina vs. Aldens.

  • Was it Sting who sang about an American man in London?

  • Do they all use the same laces?
    JIM

  • Hi Kirby,

    I have no questions, because you covered everything. I especially liked when you gave your personal opinion about the style/design of the shoes. This is an outstanding video. Please make more.

  • I just realized how poor I am :'(

  • There is absolutely no way those Allen Edmonds should be $400

    They look awful. For that price (just over £300 in England) makers such as Joseph Cheaney would be far superior. Top end lines from Barker (anniversary line) and Loake (export grade) would provide far more by way of quality.
    This is a great video but I cannot agree that the AE of value for money at that price point.

  • Definitely DO NOT take a shot every time he says "black cap toe oxford"…..

  • I firmly believe the difference in details does not justify the difference in price. Those little ridges that are on the 2nd shoe but not the 1st pair…you know how long it takes to do that? Kirby knows…about 24 seconds. Invisible stitching at the bottoms…thats an extra 5 minutes of work. Brass nails at the top of the toebox….woo…come on man don't act like they are doing gods artwork here.

  • Ludicrous. Utter nonsense. You’re talking of nearly $1000 difference. It’s a shoe. Get over yourself. Who cares? Those who have too much disposable income. When anyone makes a video about a shoe that some people will never be able to own, I think they should be banned from the very equal and universal youtube. An utter disgrace. Why is your hankie sticking out of your jacket? You don’t have a cold. Or even a little sniffle.

    Unequivocal is a great word. Using great words more than once suggests limited vocabulary.

    Stick density. Not obvious. Obviously.

    People leaving a positive comment about this drivel. You are stupid

  • Well done ! Thank you !

  • Can i run in these?

  • you leave the video feeling like you know everything about dress shoes

  • Kirby, you need to figure out a way to make your videos shorter…

  • I know little about shoes, but if they actually last for decades like the video says.. then the prices seem less outrageous.

  • Thank you kirby but the Allen's look better than the greens way better the greens looks like you can find them in ross stores

  • Thoughts on Alden?

  • Stick $75 dollar pair from Macy's

  • killing it with these videos!

  • Thanks for the very informative video Kirby but I’m disappointed that you didn’t bring up the subject comfort between the different brands. Perhaps at these price points it can be assumed that comfort is to be expected. I have a pair of English made Custom Grade Church’s oxfords that are probably thirty-three years old and are in wonderful condition. I think I paid $325 that long long ago and they are timeless in style.

  • And I thought the quality couldn’t get better than AE.

  • I own nothing in either of those ranges 😐

  • I wore choreframs for while……..I out shined them all.

  • Why you don´t review the lining of each model ?

  • The mismatched color on the heel of the last pair, and the subtle ridge in the toe, is very off-putting.

  • Allen Edmonds are very poor value and quality compared to a lot of entry and mid-level English shoe brands. Think Cheaney, Loake Export, Alfred Sargent, some Barker shoes and Grenson One and Two. The design and stitching on the AE is poor – and that heel looks such low quality.

  • Hi Kirby, would appreciate your thoughts on Alden Shoes, another classic American brand.  Thank you.

  • I can tell you what's similar: There's no way in hell I can afford either of them

  • Johnston & Murphy USED TO be in the same league as AE. Now they are stretching to be in the league of Florsheim. The first sign they were going bad? Uppers would not hold dye. My last 2 pairs of AEs had the same problem. Worrisome.

  • amazing detail and nuance, carmina gets my vote for best quality/value ratio

  • Man that guy is a salesman.

  • Take a shot everytime he says black cap toe oxford

  • $1300 for a fucking shoe? Better last 50 years wearing it daily.

  • Some of these are really good comments like the leather quality and manufacturing process but there is also a lot of BS when you're trying to justify the price. Espeically the shape and idk the differences are so minimal that the huge markup will never be wroth it. Like with all top of the line products 90% of the price jump from the B to A version of anything is 99% name and 1% performance.

  • I'm surprised the top spot didn't go to John Lobb. Lobb have held royal lasts for over a
    century and I can't imagine many a discerning fellow taking a Green over a Lobb.

  • Sure wish you would have evaluated an Alden instead of Allen Edmonds…….Alden is a way better shoe for slightly more investment. Rivals some of the 1000 dollar shoes in my opinion.

  • here i sit watching shoes that are more than a weeks pay. ill stick with my reebok classics lol

  • Allan Edmonds are so overpriced and ugly looking shoes. You can have much better shoes, made in Europe for this price (e.g. TLB Mallorca) . AE should be priced closer to $200 not $400.

  • Stick to Loake & Churchill. British excellency & £200+

  • guggi loafers or patrick cox will do me fine

  • Oxfords not Brogues ✨

  • G&G all day

  • ya look like a drone any which way

  • Kirby make a video about Chelsea's and Chukkas! We need some boots

  • idk why the hell im watching this. but this guy had me hooked with his presentation.

  • Probably a dumb question, but durability wise for the uppers, do the more expensive ones typically last a lot longer? And I'm curious how all these look aged with a good year or two of wear.

  • The Allen Edmunds look like a horse shoe compared to the others.

  • Best Money to Quality Shoe are Crockett and Jones, compare to the shown above.

  • In term of "in terms of," Kirby says "in terms of" too damn much!

  • While I'm aware of shoe brands like Berluti and John Lobb, I always thought of Allen Edmonds as high-end shoes, the BMWs of the shoe world (whereas Berluti and John Lobb would be more Rolls Royce). Partway through this video though, I started looking at the Allen Edmonds as fine, but not really nice anymore. I don't dare go into my closet to look at my ECCOs right now!

  • if you pay $1300 for a pair of shoes.. your a dumb ass..

  • All those shoes are not made for the purpose of walking in them…

  • Love that swan neck on the Ever Greens, do you do layaway? 😂

  • A really good video, however it would be better to watch if it was 60fps, some needle stich are almost impossible to see in 30fps because of the camera movement

  • Will never spend more than $100 on non-steel toed shoes
    watches full 30 minute about $400-$1300 shoes at 4 am anyway

  • Why does everyone say the black cap toe is the first shoe to get? Outside of a wedding or a funeral, black is not considered stylish and in general, a brown derby or burgundy monk strap would be far more versatile and add more to any beginner's closet

  • First World Problems!

  • Professional and informative video. Look forward to learn more about what really it’s important for me: craftsmanship. In regards of this classic style of shoes, and if I am in the market without any doubt will go for any of the two England made. The difference with the first two are notorious, the quality and refinement are absolutely outstanding, and certainly in this comparison is true again “you get what you paid for”
    Thank you!

  • Before: What? We're too hoity toity for Florsheims and Eccos?
    After: Alright, I need to get me some of them Carminas

  • You have a fantastic gift for comparing four different things without putting any of them down. Great review, I learned a lot about dress shoes 😀

  • Shoes for crews got the high gloss oxfords for $38.00 and you ain't slippin …bruh

  • $1300 = Rs. 91000.
    That's my whole life's budget on clothing😂

  • No. Missed out most of the best shoes. Loakes, Cheaney, Church, etc… oh it's American…. close.

  • Can't show off a $1300 pair of shoes without a $2 pencil

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